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Old Apr-30-2008, 04:23 PM
#1
Grumpy_one is offline Grumpy_one OP
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Dust on sensor
How can I tell? I've read that some of you check at f8 or f11. Whats the check? I'm see dark spots at the same place's in sky photo's. I just cleaned the camera side of the lens and took a sky photo and don't see the spots, I'll try later (same place and time) and see if it repeats. But was curious at this point what the check out was. Thanks
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Old Apr-30-2008, 04:38 PM
#2
Grumpy_one is offline Grumpy_one OP
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I think I just answered my own question
Here's one at f22, looks like sensor dust to me....
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Old Apr-30-2008, 04:40 PM
#3
KennyS is offline KennyS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grumpy_one
How can I tell? I've read that some of you check at f8 or f11. Whats the check? I'm see dark spots at the same place's in sky photo's. I just cleaned the camera side of the lens and took a sky photo and don't see the spots, I'll try later (same place and time) and see if it repeats. But was curious at this point what the check out was. Thanks
I run the ISO at max, and take a shot of a piece of white paper at f22. You can also, duplicate the layer in photoshop. Click Images>Adjustments>Equalize, and pow...dust spots.
Old Apr-30-2008, 04:43 PM
#4
KennyS is offline KennyS
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Wow, looks like you've got a busy night cloning ahead.
Old Apr-30-2008, 04:54 PM
#5
Art Scott is offline Art Scott
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Time to drag out the COPPER HILL goodies and go to work....in less than 15 minutes all should be gone................
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Old Apr-30-2008, 09:12 PM
#6
Grumpy_one is offline Grumpy_one OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KennyS
I run the ISO at max, and take a shot of a piece of white paper at f22. You can also, duplicate the layer in photoshop. Click Images>Adjustments>Equalize, and pow...dust spots.
Yikes, it was like looking at a petri dish!!! I got some splannin to do.
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Old Apr-30-2008, 10:12 PM
#7
Richard is offline Richard
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grumpy_one
Yikes, it was like looking at a petri dish!!! I got some splannin to do.
Pretty scary looking, isn't it? But nothing unusal, in my experience, so don't panic. Copperhill will clean that up nicely.
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Old Apr-30-2008, 10:54 PM
#8
SloYerRoll is offline SloYerRoll
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard
Pretty scary looking, isn't it? But nothing unusal, in my experience, so don't panic. Copperhill will clean that up nicely.
Just to add to that. Don't freak if the first cleaning doesn't remove all the debris.

Additional cleanings will eventually break up the badness. I'd wait a day between cleanings. But I've heard others do them back to back w/ no problems.
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Old May-01-2008, 01:02 AM
#9
Photoskipper is offline Photoskipper
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wow, very good collection.

I would consider to send for professional cleaning if my sensor is in such conditional. I am not sure how much I can do with DIY tools.
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Old May-01-2008, 02:28 AM
#10
Scott_Quier is offline Scott_Quier
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Photoskipper
wow, very good collection.

I would consider to send for professional cleaning if my sensor is in such conditional. I am not sure how much I can do with DIY tools.
Not worth the effort. As Richard said, this is common. For me, this is not bad at all as I've had "tests" come out looking much worse. And, as he said, a Copperhill cleaning will get that looking pristine in now time (well, under an hour anyway) and you're back to shooting. Sending it in, you're without the camera for a minimum of a day (if you live near a service center) and as much as a couple of weeks if you have to ship the camera.

As for the test itself - here's what I do:
  1. Pick an aperture I want to test at. The more stopped down the lens, the more critical the test.
  2. Using either my 24-105 or 28-75, zoom to the long end of the focal range.
  3. Turn off AF
  4. Set focus to infinity
  5. Set to Aperture Priority
  6. Set aperture to the desired value
  7. Set ISO to 100
  8. Set image size to large JPG (shooting this in RAW is just so much a waste of time )
  9. Point it at a white computer screen from a really close distance - I have the end of the lens just a couple of inches (that's about 5cm for the sane portions of the world) from the monitor. I use WinXP, so I just open up a Notepad window and maximize it.
  10. Press the shutter. During the exposure (the shutter speed will be on the order of a second or two), move the camera around to make sure you don't get any artifacts from the screen. This shouldn't happen as you are focused so far out, but it doesn't hurt either. Besides, when was the last time you intentionally moved the camera that much? It's fun to break the rules once in a while
  11. Load the resulting JPG into CS, do an auto-levels on it. Wow - look at all those dust bunnies!
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Old May-01-2008, 08:05 AM
#11
claudermilk is offline claudermilk
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Yep, typical. This will just take several PecPads to get it clean--one swipe in each direction, then replace the pad. Eventually the stubborn ones will start the smear, then will go away. Just take your time & be patient.
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Old May-01-2008, 08:50 AM
#12
SloYerRoll is offline SloYerRoll
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Photoskipper
I would consider to send for professional cleaning if my sensor is in such conditional.
If you do the tests. You'll see your ensor is probably the same as the rest of our You just don't notice it that much
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Old May-01-2008, 03:16 PM
#13
KED is offline KED
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott_Quier
Not worth the effort. As Richard said, this is common. For me, this is not bad at all as I've had "tests" come out looking much worse. And, as he said, a Copperhill cleaning will get that looking pristine in now time (well, under an hour anyway) and you're back to shooting. Sending it in, you're without the camera for a minimum of a day (if you live near a service center) and as much as a couple of weeks if you have to ship the camera.

As for the test itself - here's what I do:
  1. Pick an aperture I want to test at. The more stopped down the lens, the more critical the test.
  2. Using either my 24-105 or 28-75, zoom to the long end of the focal range.
  3. Turn off AF
  4. Set focus to infinity
  5. Set to Aperture Priority
  6. Set aperture to the desired value
  7. Set ISO to 100
  8. Set image size to large JPG (shooting this in RAW is just so much a waste of time )
  9. Point it at a white computer screen from a really close distance - I have the end of the lens just a couple of inches (that's about 5cm for the sane portions of the world) from the monitor. I use WinXP, so I just open up a Notepad window and maximize it.
  10. Press the shutter. During the exposure (the shutter speed will be on the order of a second or two), move the camera around to make sure you don't get any artifacts from the screen. This shouldn't happen as you are focused so far out, but it doesn't hurt either. Besides, when was the last time you intentionally moved the camera that much? It's fun to break the rules once in a while
  11. Load the resulting JPG into CS, do an auto-levels on it. Wow - look at all those dust bunnies!
That is hugely useful as we head into green pollen season here in the East. Thanks!
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Old May-01-2008, 03:46 PM
#14
KED is offline KED
Laffin' & Blastin'
Quote:
Originally Posted by claudermilk
Yep, typical. This will just take several PecPads to get it clean--one swipe in each direction, then replace the pad. Eventually the stubborn ones will start the smear, then will go away. Just take your time & be patient.
I just read my manuals which talk only about using a blower. Do you know whether there are there warranty issues associated with actually wiping the sensor?
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Old May-01-2008, 04:38 PM
#15
Icebear is offline Icebear
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No. Not unless you scratch it .
But seriously (snigger) if you use a system like Eclipse & Sensor Swabs, after using a blower like a Giottos, you aren't likely to hurt your filter. Just read the effing directions twelve times BEFORE you lock your mirror up. And make sure you have a full charge on your battery, or are on a/c. Check out this site for some more good info.

Oh, and you're not actually touching the sensor, just the low-pass filter in front of it.
Old May-01-2008, 05:20 PM
#16
Photoskipper is offline Photoskipper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SloYerRoll
If you do the tests. You'll see your ensor is probably the same as the rest of our You just don't notice it that much
I believe so. But I do check the sensor regularly and use rocket blower to clean it before I put the body back to the dry box. The full frame senosr in 5D gives me more headache but yet not so bad.

Here are some ways to reduce the dust collection on the sensor:
1. Use the zoom lens. wider focal length and avoid change lens in the field. A good walk about lens can cater for most of situation, such as the 24-105 or 18 -200
2. Remove dust from the body and lens by blower before open up the lens mounts and the lens cover when you need to change the lens.
3. Clean the camera bag regularly, I found the dust and fibre usually come from the camera bag. Regular vaccum the bag or the case may help.
4. replace the torn or worn divider or sponge inside the camea bag. They may produce extra foreign body to the camera.
5. Keep the camera and lens in a dust free container such as dry box or plastic box when it is not in use.
6. Consider to bring extra camera loaded with different lenses so that no need to change lens in the field. I usually do it for the projects or serious photo trips.
7. Try to change lens under control environment such as in-door, in the studio or at home. Never do it outdoor during the windy day.
9. Change the lens only after the camera shut down for awhile. The static charge built-up on the sensor will attract dust from surrounding
8. Pray hard.
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Old May-02-2008, 06:55 AM
#17
claudermilk is offline claudermilk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KED
I just read my manuals which talk only about using a blower. Do you know whether there are there warranty issues associated with actually wiping the sensor?
If you scratch the filter they will charge you for replacement. This is just extreme CYA caution on the manufacturer's part (and probably a method to drive some business to theit facilities). Damage to the filter from careful wet swab cleaning is very rare; I've heard of a couple of cases of someone using way too much & getting some under the filter & I've probably read about a scratch or two (can't recall any specific cases for sure). The method I KNOW has had issues with damaging the filter is the Dust-Aid product, which has damaged the coating & their response was less than encouraging. IIRC the reports of replacement was under $200.

To reinforce Icebear's comment: you are not touching the actual sensor, but a glass filter in front of it. Much cheaper to replace.
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Old May-02-2008, 07:47 AM
#18
Scott_Quier is offline Scott_Quier
Lovin' It
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Icebear
No. Not unless you scratch it .
But seriously (snigger) if you use a system like Eclipse & Sensor Swabs, after using a blower like a Giottos, you aren't likely to hurt your filter. Just read the effing directions twelve times BEFORE you lock your mirror up. And make sure you have a full charge on your battery, or are on a/c. Check out this site for some more good info.

Oh, and you're not actually touching the sensor, just the low-pass filter in front of it.
And, when you visit/read the site indicated, be aware that you will need to get the correct Eclipse solution. There's one for older cameras. And another for the newer cameras with tin oxide coating on the top filter. If I understand correctly, if you clean SnO2 coated filter with the older solution - bad things happen. I don't know if the reverse is true or not.
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Old May-03-2008, 05:04 AM
#19
pathfinder is offline pathfinder
Drive By Digital Shooter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Icebear
No. Not unless you scratch it .
But seriously (snigger) if you use a system like Eclipse & Sensor Swabs, after using a blower like a Giottos, you aren't likely to hurt your filter. Just read the effing directions twelve times BEFORE you lock your mirror up. And make sure you have a full charge on your battery, or are on a/c. Check out this site for some more good info.

Oh, and you're not actually touching the sensor, just the low-pass filter in front of it.

The cost for replacing the low pass filter in a 5D is $306.00 - DAMHIK Turnaround is less than 2 weeks. Now my sensor is clean as a whistle

I recommend avoiding Delkin swabs. I have wet cleaned 10Ds, 20Ds, 5Ds, 1DsMklls without incident with Sensor swabs..........
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Old May-03-2008, 06:58 AM
#20
Grumpy_one is offline Grumpy_one OP
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So there's "sensor swabs" and there's "pec-pads". The sensor swabs seem more expensive. Ready to buy a kit. I would like some feed back on these. Thanks
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