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Improving Car Shots by Blurring Backgrounds
In need of critique and help with my automotive shots as I hope to be doing some photoshoots in the (very, very) near future.
Well, it only let's me upload one at a time, so if you would like more to see my range, just say so. Thanks!
Well, it only let's me upload one at a time, so if you would like more to see my range, just say so. Thanks!
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PS: You only had one photo when I posted, but now there are a few more, but my comment was directed at the first.
Oh, you might want to read the Whipping Post Rules.
Natural selection is responsible for every living thing that exists.
D3s, D500, D5300, and way more glass than the wife knows about.
To your reply- I B & W'ed the background for that reason. How could I get rid of it?
Natural selection is responsible for every living thing that exists.
D3s, D500, D5300, and way more glass than the wife knows about.
http://flickr.com/photos/23102781@N08
I've moved this thread from the Whipping Post, because the WP has some specific rules. They're linked in my signature, take a look when you have time.
You'll get plenty of good help here in Technique.
As for attaching images, yes, you can only attach one image per post. If you were to embed your images, you could put many into one post. Again, you can look in my signature for a link to a tutorial on how to post images on dgrin.
Dgrin FAQ | Me | Workshops
Not a problem. It's an odd forum in that regard.
Dgrin FAQ | Me | Workshops
A Ferrari is a great car, but even a Ferrari won't automatically guarantee a great shot. A P&S can capture sharp images if used with skill. Backgrounds tend to be sharp due to the increased depth of field seen with the smaller sensor in P&Ss.
There are work arounds - I posted this image bragging about the bokeh with a G9, waiting for someone to ask how it was shot ( That was a joke!!, because the bokeh with most P&Ss is awful due to a small aperture and great DOF).
It was shot with a sharp background, and then the background burred in Photoshop. This is NOT a Ferrari, but a Nissan GT-R which may be as fast as that Ferrari.......
The overhead can light clusters are not the most photogenic lighting choices either.
To blur the background, your must first select the car carefully; I usually use the Pen Tool, but the Magnetic Lasso can also be used. I, then, carefully, refine the edges of the selection and save the selection as an Alpha channel. The Refine Edges command is a great help here.
I duplicate the selection of the car itself onto a new layer. Click on the eye on the selected car layer to turn off viewing it.
I then return to the background layer, load the selection of the car again, and carefully clone the area of the background into the area of the car's selection. CTRL-D to remove the dancing ants of the selection, and then a Gaussian blur of the background layer to create the blur needed - anywhere from 5 to 50 or 60 pixels. Now click on the eye of the selected car itself, and voila, a sharp outline of the car with a highly blurred background.
CTRL-E will then collapse the layers to a final jpg for saving.
I am changing the title of this thread from Whip Me because that will not help in some one searching for information about cars shots. I am tempted to move this to Finishing School because it really has been about image editing and not camera shooting technique, but that may be discussed as well.
Point and shoots tend to focus more slowly, and when shooting moving vehicles this can be a problem. One solution, is to prefocus in manual focus, if your P&S allows it ( and you really should prefer a P&S that allows complete manual control as an option). I have seen dynamite shots of downhill skiers shot in that manner with a Canon G9.
The light pole shadow across your third Ferrari's hood is not an assett either. You have to watch carefully for all the reflections in car images as well. As in this self portrait
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
Panning on a tripod head will probably work better also since P&Ss are smaller and harder to hold stable than a DSLR planted against your forehead.
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
These 2 are taken from the same part of the track, with cars doing around 80mph as they go by:
#1 is taken at 1/100 sec
#2 is taken at 1/20 sec (more blur, but harder to keep car sorta sharp)
Keep in mind that the slower a car is going, the more difficult it becomes to blur the background. Here's another shot at 1/100, but the car is going more like 50 mph. The background blur isn't as great, but the wheels are blurred enough to convey some speed.
Additionally, a higher shutter speed will freeze the action easier. But then can be boring, unless something else is conveying the speed, like the suspension compressing on one side (this one is shot at 1/400 sec):
Depending upon lighting, car speed, etc. I'll usually try several test pics at different shutter speeds to see what works best for given conditions. Use the zoom of your camera's viewer to confirm the sharpness.
Canon 50D, 30D and Digital Rebel (plus some old friends - FTB and AE1)
Long-time amateur.....wishing for more time to play
Autocross and Track junkie
tonyp.smugmug.com
RTFM!
What kind of camera do you have? Did you get a manual with it?
http://www.moose135photography.com
May I recommend Boulevard Photographic: The art of Automotive Advertising by Jim Williams. It's a good peek into the world of automotive photography in the advertisig industry. Even if you're not aiming yourself in that direction, though, the photographs are incredible. It's available at Amazon.
Boulevard Photographic is a company of two men who have been photographing cars since the late '40s (although they may have retired by now). The book is mostly stills , but they also cover their motion shots. Including their use of a shooting rig wherein ". . . moving a car 4 feet through the course of a 4-second exposure was more than enough to simulate a car traveling 60 miles per hour."
You have some pretty good shots for someone just starting out. I particularly like your shot of the yellow Murcielago. Keep it up.
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What are you shooting with? Maybe someone here has experience with one and can help you out.
http://www.moose135photography.com
Nikon Coolpix L14
I looked for a manual to DL from the web, but it cost $4, and is not covered by my paycheck here on dgrin:D
I did find an article which answered my question though. The CoolPix L14 does not offer manual control of shutter speed or aperture, so you cannot adjust these your self. Instead you get a standard list of scene modes portrait, landscape, sports, party, and others.
Sports will probably give you the faster shutter speed.
Cameras without access to manual controls are somewhat limited in their utility, if image quality is a priority to the owner.
Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
The second one is motion blurred.
And the third and fourth look blurred because the highlights seem to reflect very hevily, giving the appearence (to me) of being soft.
I'm going to be honest here. Don't take it as rude.
That last shot you posted is unusable IMO. There's too much motion blur in the car.
But take solace in the fact that shooters w/ fully blown high end camera sometimes have trouble w/ tracking a moving target to get motion blur like your going for. It all boils down to practice, practice, practice. It's just like hopping in that sick black lambo and going for a joy ride. You wouldn't expect to drive it like a race car driver unless you have hours on hours of drive time. (allot of us THINK we could, but in all reality..)
You have allot of sweet cars to shoot, but you really are limited by your camera. I'm not saying you have to buy a new camera. But some of the things you want to do are very specific and you need the right tools for the job. It's like trying to ski a double black w/ bunny hill ski's. You can do it, but the outcome may not be what you wanted.
If you post what modes you have for your camera. I'll be happy to translate what they mean so you can get the closest possible results that your looking for