Originally Posted by fish you bought one? worked good, huh? there's just something that gives me shivers when i think about using liquid and swabs on a cmos sensor. of course, if it doesn't work, then I can blame you and the nikon deadbeat.

No, no, when I say dry brush, I actually mean dry brush.

Originally Posted by fish you bought one? worked good, huh? there's just something that gives me shivers when i think about using liquid and swabs on a cmos sensor. of course, if it doesn't work, then I can blame you and the nikon deadbeat.

It took a lot of nerve and a steady hand, but the Copperhill method worked for me. Blowers and brushes are probably not the way to go. Just get up your nerve and do it the right way.

mitch

Originally Posted by Mitchell brushes are probably not the way to go.

Why?

Originally Posted by fish you bought one? worked good, huh? there's just something that gives me shivers when i think about using liquid and swabs on a cmos sensor. of course, if it doesn't work, then I can blame you and the nikon deadbeat.

You can mitigate the dust by turning the camera off before you swap
the lens. Something about ESD.

Ian

Originally Posted by ian408 You can mitigate the dust by turning the camera off before you swap the lens. Something about ESD. Ian

I think it basically turns the sensor into a dust magnet.

Originally Posted by Mitchell It took a lot of nerve and a steady hand, but the Copperhill method worked for me. Blowers and brushes are probably not the way to go. Just get up your nerve and do it the right way. mitch

is to use one of the methods. sensorbrush has a fine following... i've not tried it, only because i started with copperhill... i've heard good things about sensor brush though.

Originally Posted by andy is to use one of the methods. sensorbrush has a fine following... i've not tried it, only because i started with copperhill... i've heard good things about sensor brush though.

Ever since I received my eclipse and enough swabs to last life time all my dust motts have dissapeared.. works great.. just leave it on the shelf and poof.. no more motts.. maybe it was the lenses.. which are now gone..

Originally Posted by wxwax I think it basically turns the sensor into a dust magnet.

indeed. and actually, in an ideal situation, you should give it a second to discharge after shutting it off. I know the Drebel actually shots off when you disconnect the lens, would imagine most dslr's do, but still, its a charged sensor, and those electrons do take a split second to all depart.

Something about the copperhill method. Be careful. I was a bit, er, heavy handed, and I managed to bend down the metal frame that's around the CMOS on my drebel on the left side. It didn't do anything to the pictures, but you know, still, it kinda sucks that it bent down.
Richard

Something else. While it's important to take great care when working
inside the camera you should also know that the CMOS sensor is not
totally unprotected it does have a thin glass layer over it. You do need
to be careful with the amount of fluid on the swab--don't get it all
over the inside of the camera--that will be bad.

When you're using the rocket to blow the dust out. Turn the camera
off. Raise the mirror (if needed) and face the camera down at >45
degree angle and blow--don't stick the tip of the rocket inside the
body.

So far, I haven't had to clean the sensor except using the rocket
blower.

Ian

Originally Posted by ian408 So far, I haven't had to clean the sensor except using the rocket blower. Ian

Same here, so far. Do me a favor, please? Go shoot the sky at your smallest aperture, process with autolevels and lets see the result. Don't blow off your sensor first. Just curious...

So when i get a DSLR...

i will have to clean the thing inside...start using raw & look through the viewfinder instead of the LCD screen to shoot with

This is getting deeper & deeper.

Originally Posted by Humungus So when i get a DSLR... i will have to clean the thing inside...start using raw & look through the viewfinder instead of the LCD screen to shoot with This is getting deeper & deeper.

You may also have to use Photoshop or Elements or paintShopPro to get the best out of your shot.

Dunno what the 20D or D70 are like, but the 1D and mkII provide a rich basic material that still needs to be shaped into an excellent photo. Things like saturation, contrast, sharpening need to be done to make the shots sing.

Originally Posted by wxwax You may also have to use Photoshop or Elements or paintShopPro to get the best out of your shot. Dunno what the 20D or D70 are like, but the 1D and mkII provide a rich basic material that still needs to be shaped into an excellent photo. Things like saturation, contrast, sharpening need to be done to make the shots sing.

OI....sid







over here mate....dont take anything i say too seriously

Originally Posted by Humungus OI....sid over here mate....dont take anything i say too seriously

Like that?

Originally Posted by wxwax Why?

From what I have read, the CCD still has an electrostatic charge even with the camera off. Brushes and blowers alone will generally just push the dust around and not really remove them. The eclipse solution and the pads can decrease the charge by wetting action and help to dislodge/remove the dust.

mitch

Originally Posted by fish Same here, so far. Do me a favor, please? Go shoot the sky at your smallest aperture, process with autolevels and lets see the result. Don't blow off your sensor first. Just curious...

They are there. No bout-a-doubt it.

Ian

Originally Posted by Mitchell From what I have read, the CCD still has an electrostatic charge even with the camera off. Brushes and blowers alone will generally just push the dust around and not really remove them. The eclipse solution and the pads can decrease the charge by wetting action and help to dislodge/remove the dust. mitch

Michael Reichman has reviewed using Eclipse Methyl Alcohol solution and Sensor Swabs and has a good description of the technique on the Luminous Lancscape. He lso recently reviewed the Visible Dust removal Brushes from Canada. http://www.luminous-landscape.com/re...ble-dust.shtml

I have cleaned my sensors with Eclispe and Sensor Swabs several times without incident, but from what I am reading on the web the brushes from visibledust.com are more effective and certainly seem safer than scrubbing your antialiasing filter with a firm pressure on a Sensor Swab.
Reichman is very emphatic that the VisibleDust brush is his preferred method at this time. There have been extensive discussions of sensor cleaning in the forums on his website, much of it led by Didger who put a big scratch on the sensor in his 1D with a sensor swab and Eclipse. He was not a happy camper. Go to visibledust.com I own three of their brushes.
One yuo use the Visibledust brush it will be very rare that you will need to use Eclipse and Sensor Swabs unless you sneeze into you DSLR while cleaning the sensor

BTW, I mentioned I bent down the sidewall around my sensor with a swab. Looks like when I had the AF calibrated canon fixed that (though I know that didnt cause the miscalibration since the af was off before that). Now the mirror mechanism is broke of course, but that's another matter alltogether.
Richard

Originally Posted by Mitchell From what I have read, the CCD still has an electrostatic charge even with the camera off. Brushes and blowers alone will generally just push the dust around and not really remove them. The eclipse solution and the pads can decrease the charge by wetting action and help to dislodge/remove the dust. mitch

Theoretically, the Sensor Brush also neutralizes the charge to remove the dust.

And FWIW, CCD = A charge-coupled device (CCD), is an integrated circuit containing an array of linked, or coupled, capacitors. Under the control of an external circuit, each capacitor can transfer its electric charge to one or other of its neighbours. CCDs are used in digital photography and astronomy (particularly in photometry, optical and UV spectroscopy and high speed techniques such as Lucky imaging).