It takes two to climb in France

PrezwoodzPrezwoodz Registered Users Posts: 1,147 Major grins
edited July 20, 2007 in Journeys
Okay so I am not going to let some crappy host keep me from posting pictures. It dosent matter if I am half way around the world they are not going to win!

My last picture series was of Switzerland and I admit it is hard to beat that type of experience of large peaks and huge waterfalls. I met up with a guy named Patrick in Switzerland and we were trying to find out where we should go next to get some climbing in. We figured that there was a certain place nearby with the world reputation to make it extra special so we hopped on a train to head towards Ceuse, France. We didnt really have any idea how we were going to get to Ceuse however since it is near a little town called Gap and the train ticket was going to be much to expensive especially for a return. We didn't have much time and so we decided to try and get a rental car once we got to Bern, Switzerland. The train arrived and we had a few hours before the car companies closed and we were stuck without a car so we worked fast walking right to the companies. The car was going to be much more expensive then we hoped! Almost $300 Swiss Franks for 3 days was much more then I was willing to spend especially since it didn't even include gas. We spent the next few hours running around town calling different companies and even trying the internet all without luck. We headed back to Europcar and stood out in front of the door talking it over for a while when Patrick finally dangled a treat out in front of the deal. He told me "I will put up buy you a ticket up to $100 to anywhere you want to go when we drive back. I am willing to put up $250 for this. I really want to go." Well I just couldn't pass up the deal and we got our little volkswagon golf and headed toward France. It was almost 7pm and we didn't have time to waste so I drove most of the night. Patrick was under 25 so I would be doing all the driving to save money. We got from Bern, Switzerland to Gap, France in about 6 hours and slept in the car. We woke up to a beautiful site of cliffs overlooking the city of Gap. Throughout the night our plans had changed a bit though and we had decided to go to Verdon Gorge instead where Multi-Pitch climbs were abundant.

The city of Gap,France overlooked by limestone cliffs.
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We found our way into Verdon Gorge the next morning and found our way to a great village called La Palud where a great lady from the local climbing shop helped us found some routes we could do. We didn't waste any time and drove right to the climbing areas by about noon we were standing on the cliffs. The approach was incredible! Sometimes there would be people actually belaying off of the viewpoint poles. Thats how close they were to the car! We walked to the climbs we had been told about and I found a few people climbing already. This man and wife were just finished a route. The climbs in this area are around 250meters from bottom to top, all vertical.
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This man was about 40 feet below the viewpoint on the last pitch of the climb.
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The Verdon Gorge is amazing and the climbing would be impossible to do it all in lifetime. There are so many routes including walls I bet have never been done. Supposably it is the largest Gorge in Europe.
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You can see the little route map on the left of this photo. We ended up doing a combination of routes C and D.
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Most of the routes in the Gorge are reached by doing rappels to the base of the climbs. Some start halfway up the wall and some start in lower areas. Patrick and I started the long rappells to the bottom on two ropes one was 60 meters and the other was a rope I had been cutting for anchors so we estimated it around 40 meters. The book said the first rappel was 45 meters so it already looked as though it would be an interesting day of climbing. I got strapped in on the first rappel and leaned back onto the belay device. I asked "Look good?" We both checked and agreed it looked solid. I started to lower myself when I heard a clank noise. I looked down and was shocked to see that I hadn't hooked my belay device to the carabiner. I grabbed the rope and drug myself back up to the rock to fix it and finally lowered down correctly.The second rappel was much more uneventful.

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We would not be so lucky however on the third rappel. It was my turn and I was lowering to the next belay when I looked down and saw that the rope was about 10 feet to short. That meant that if I tried to make it I would go off the end of the rope plunging into the valley below (atleast it would if we hadn't tied a knot in the end of the rope like the smart climbers we hope to be). I grabbed a ledge in the rock and spent the next 5 minutes pulling rope through my belay device the other way to feed more rope out to the short one. It was not easy work but it held alright as I was able to finish the rappel.

Starting from the bottom the climbing was excellent. The amount of money I had spent the last few days flew out the window as my mind became at ease with the surroundings. The gorge winded away forever and the river fed my desires for water. We climbed into the heat up the wonderfully featured rock. Patrick wished my shadow would just a bit further.
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We came to a big ledge where we could take a break from the sun for a few minutes and let our feet rest a bit. We hadn't used them in the shoes for such an extended amount of time in a while. The sun was relentless.

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Finally after a few hours of climbing the sun had gone beyond the cliff and we welcomed the shade. It was wonderful to climb without the sun on our backs. Patrick takes a nap as I finish a pitch of 5.10-
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Patrick enjoying the climbing with a huge smile on his face.
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Patrick makes a big reach in the final moves of this pitch. It was a fun section with several difficult moves.
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We finished the route 6 hours after starting and were pretty exhausted by the heat from the day. We had brought a nalgene each and it wasn't enough. I had not had a proper day of sleep in atleast 2 days and had definatly felt it throughout the climb. My eyes had been read for 2 days now and I was hoping that I would be able to get a good nights sleep in the car before the climb the next day. It didn't happen however as I slept an uncomfortable night and woke up with my eyes as red as ever. We went for the climb anyway not wanting to waste our last day at Verdon. We climbed a route with several pitches of 5.10 and a final 5.11 pitch for the finish Starting after several rappels near a large cave.
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The view from the area is incredible. The walls all around look larger then the one you are on at any one moment.
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The day before we had not warmed up at all and hopped right onto some moves which made my fingers ache so I decided to do some warming up before todays climb. At the base of the climb was this magnificent cave.
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Patrick won the rock paper scissors match to start off the climb.
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My favorite pitch of the route was a section which included great cracks and pockets into a nice large crack. It was challenging for me and I was happy to lead it without falls.
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We continued the climb up and got to the final pitch which Patrick led marvellously! He climbed a short overhanging section to finish the 5.11 with no falls. I didn't have the same luck...or skill and my foot slipped sending me into my first fall. I was now hanging in the air out of patricks earshot. It was a difficult time swinging and pulling up on the rope to get myself back onto the rock and I used a lot of energy. By this time I was already sapped by the route and the heat and didn't have much left. I became increasingly frustrated as I fell 2 more times during the pitch and finally topped out with my arms feeling like butter. The anxiety disappeared with the view however and I was soon excited that we had finished. We didn't have a lot of time to celebrate as we had to have the car back to Geneva Airport by 9am the next morning. We hopped in the car and started the long drive back. On the way we saw something which is the staple of Provence, France. The long fields of Lavender were a sight to see for sure!
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The area smelled wonderful and we had trouble driving through it without stopping. We both commented on the wonders of driving a car yourself through such beautiful country. On the train you don't get to stop. Here we were in control of our trip and seeing things which you don't see unless you put yourself there.

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One one more for this wonderful plant.
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We were driving out of the canyon when we came to the sight of the large lake at the end of the gorge. We couldn't resist the urge and soon we were climbing high over the water of this river. We didn't get any pictures however because we were both pretty tired and not up to the task of carrying the cameras!
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We climbed the canyon walls on the left and swam in the unusually deep warm water. It was wonderful after several days of blistering hot sun. The sky shined the most amazing blue I had ever seen it be.
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We finally pulled ourselves from the wonderful water and headed on our way towards Switzerland. Goodbye Verdon, I will be back again.
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More fields of Lavender drifted along our footsteps and passed quickly into memory.
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We stopped in a really nice town along the way called Sisteron, besides La Palud I think this was my favorite town of the trip. They had some really neat town features as well as geological features.

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This quiet street was a bit of a ruse since just around the corner lots of restraunts were bussing with people.
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This is one of the more interesting geological features of the area. Large towers with huge gaps inbetween which we didn't see anywhere else along the entire trip.
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And at last we say goodbye to Sisteron. We drove through the night and slept an hour outside of Geneva which we drove to, bought some grocieries, and had the car returned 5 minutes before 9. After another 30 hours in the airport I was off to Prague, Patrick had been true to his word and had put up $100 towards the ticket. A wonderful trip with new friends!

Comments

  • jamesljamesl Registered Users Posts: 642 Major grins
    edited July 20, 2007
    Wow wow wow! I am in awe. Thank you so much for sharing these, and telling your most excellent climbing tales. clap.gif Looks like you had an incredible time. I'm very glad you were able to find a place to host your pics of this trip.

    Great job! thumb.gif

    James
  • LilleGLilleG Registered Users Posts: 313 Major grins
    edited July 20, 2007
    Your climbing tales are always enjoyable and the pictures great (and I'm afraid of heights too!) Keep 'em coming!
  • Art ScottArt Scott Registered Users Posts: 8,959 Major grins
    edited July 20, 2007
    Oh wow a fantastic set of images...must be on my list of to do's when I return to Europe, not the climbimg (fear of heights.....) but shooting landscapes of those areas........

    Keep'em comin'.......short ways north of Switzweland but about 3 hours or so south of Pragha(by train) is the Moravian Karst.....a small but very deep gorge (around 900 meters if memory recalls correctly).....but be danged if I remember the closest town to it.......
    "Genuine Fractals was, is and will always be the best solution for enlarging digital photos." ....Vincent Versace ... ... COPYRIGHT YOUR WORK ONLINE ... ... My Website

  • emmalouemmalou Registered Users Posts: 412 Major grins
    edited July 20, 2007
    I will be the one at the bottom of that big piece of rock with a few cold wobblys for ya Prez...there is no way in the world I would be on that face......I have a problem with the top rung of the extension ladderne_nau.gif

    I love your photologs!!!!!! WHat a way cool life.bowdown.gifbowdown.gifbowdown.gifbowdown.gif
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