Polarizing film and circular polarizing filter vs shiny stuff

Don KondraDon Kondra Registered Users Posts: 630 Major grins
edited June 6, 2014 in Technique
I'd like to share my relatively inexpensive foray into cross polarization.


I purchased 4' long x 17" wide piece of film from here.


Including shipping to Canada the cost was $90, that's enough material (17" x 16") for three 20" x 20" softboxes. The intended use is smallish product.


I also purchased an off shore lens collar for the 70-200mm (ebay $20), Hoya Pro 1 CP filters (ebay $140) and rubber lens hoods (ebay $10) for the 24-70mm and 70-200mm.


Polarizingfilterandfilm_zpse184d50c.jpg


To attach the film to the softboxes I basically cut a hole in white foam core a 1/2" smaller than the film and taped it to the opening, then hot glued a 2" wide border around the panel.


Hotglueframe_zpsf966ee0a.jpg


A simple paper clip holds the frame on the softbox.


Clippedonsoftbox_zps3fc143ee.jpg


Frameonsoftbox_zps58ceb3de.jpg


First test shot with a handmade ebony pen in landscape orientation to check for vignetting.


SOOC_zps9a7ca8b5.jpg


Very minor editing...


Noreflectors_zpsf26927c3.jpg


Next was a test shot in portrait mode with a pen that was handmade for me as a gift. The pen blank is made up of shredded $50 bills in resin.


Credit to Mack Cameron, the pen maker..


MoneySOOC_zps1732230b.jpg


BTW - the reflections on the collars on this pen drove me crazy until I viewed it closely in natural light and noticed they are indeed faceted.


I'm not sure of the math when the lights are reflected onto the subject or used from above but I do know this bit of "kit" will be very useful in my work.


Cheers, Don

Comments

  • pathfinderpathfinder Super Moderators Posts: 14,694 moderator
    edited May 27, 2014
    Great write up and very interesting information.

    I can see how this setup can be quite useful for controlling reflections.

    Thanks for posting this, Don!
    Pathfinder - www.pathfinder.smugmug.com

    Moderator of the Technique Forum and Finishing School on Dgrin
  • Don KondraDon Kondra Registered Users Posts: 630 Major grins
    edited May 28, 2014
    My pleasure,

    Here's some shots for comparison..

    Bare naked lens/softbox's.

    Barenakedweb_zps586e7424.jpg

    Circular Polarizer.

    CPweb_zpsac8315eb.jpg

    Circular Polarizer and more power.

    CPmorepower_zps1b03f6a2.jpg

    Bare lens and polarizing film on softboxes.

    Filmweb_zps2fe938a5.jpg

    And a step back shot.

    Stepbackweb_zps47f8bb9e.jpg

    Cheers, Don
  • Gary752Gary752 Registered Users Posts: 934 Major grins
    edited May 29, 2014
    Thanks Don for sharing this tip! This would help save me a lot of pp time for the shots I do at work. I've been pulling my hair out dealing with reflections in the surface of machine tools. Your final step back shot also gave me an idea on a way to support the tools to get them away from the backdrop.

    GaryB
    GaryB
    “The single most important component of a camera is the twelve inches behind it!” - Ansel Adams
  • Don KondraDon Kondra Registered Users Posts: 630 Major grins
    edited May 30, 2014
    My pleasure Gary !

    I'll be looking for your posts :)

    Cheers, Don
  • chasgroh2chasgroh2 Registered Users Posts: 68 Big grins
    edited June 6, 2014
    Hey Gary...VERY interesting...I'm wondering how I would adapt your technique for shooting brass instruments...from trumpets to tubas. Just got done trying (boy, I *do* mean that!) with a new bass trumpet manufactured locally. What film did you buy exactly...there's a number of choices on your link...thanks for your input!
    Charlie Groh
    (tin can tied to the bumper)
  • Don KondraDon Kondra Registered Users Posts: 630 Major grins
    edited June 6, 2014
    I am the original poster Charlie...

    This is the film I purchased.

    You may want to try a circular polarizer on your lens first before moving on to cross polarization...

    Cheers, Don
  • Don KondraDon Kondra Registered Users Posts: 630 Major grins
    edited June 6, 2014
    Another technique you can try is reflected light.

    By that I mean use white foamcore and reflect the light off the foamcore onto the object. And/or try black, whatever color you use will be reflected by the metal.

    Cheers, Don
  • chasgroh2chasgroh2 Registered Users Posts: 68 Big grins
    edited June 6, 2014
    Don Kondra wrote: »
    Another technique you can try is reflected light.

    By that I mean use white foamcore and reflect the light off the foamcore onto the object. And/or try black, whatever color you use will be reflected by the metal.

    Cheers, Don

    ...yessir, Don...been fishin' around and have arrived at a good beginning strategy. In effect I'm shooting a mirror, that's the dicey part. Yesterday I managed to get decent results except for 45 degrees or so coming back to the camera, so I've got a plan, with some of your input, to deal with that...we'll see and I'll keep you in the loop. Oh, I also contract wood jobs (and a kitchen or two) and am finding my way into canvas and framing...fun! And it's nice to have *our* skillset!
    Charlie Groh
    (tin can tied to the bumper)
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