Climbing Potrero Chico - Bring your reading glasses!

PrezwoodzPrezwoodz Registered Users Posts: 1,147 Major grins
edited February 28, 2011 in Journeys
We both red the sign "Hidalgo" and knew we were close to our final destination. This knowledge was heightened by the fact that there were 1000 foot towers of limestone standing over the small town. It had taken a 10 hour bus ride through the night, then another 1 hour bus ride to get to this point and we were ready to get our harnesses on. I had hurt my back in Mexico City a week or so earlier but it felt mostly healed and I was excited to finally get to climb. We walked off the bus and took in the surroundings with no idea of which way to head next. We took a lap around the park and then proceeded to jump into what our driver called a "Taxi". It was obviously just his daily vehicle. He was probably just making a few dollars on his lunch break. We rumbled down the road to Homeros Campground which was going to be our home for the next 10 days. Arriving at Homeros we got ourselves a campsite and setup the tiny one person tent that I had brought with me and we both squeezed into it under the increasingly hot sun. It wasnt said but I am sure we shared the feelings that we didnt want to stay in this tent for 10 days if we did not have to. A climbers campground always seems to look the same to me. Normally in a campground where you dont find much climbing there are large tents right next to vehicles with large stoves and maybe the occasional television thrown in. Climbers dont often let themselves to such luxuries and most of tents were 2 or 3 person tents with clothes or climbing gear hanging nearby. We pleaded with Milton who runs Homero for a sleeping quarters with a bed and he gave us an excellent price on a bungalo given that we would purchase the room for the whole time that we were there. Shasta and I talked about it for about as long as it takes to glance at one another. The room was ours.

We got about to making ourselves at home and taking in the surrounding territory. The walls of limestone were amazing and so close we could feel their presence even if we were not looking at them.
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The next morning we were not willing to waste anytime so we slept in until 10 or 11am and went right for Buzz Rock which looked like a great place to start climbing. The ensuing bushwack through cactus and scree was enough to sidetrack our climbing thoughts. We finally made it to the climbing area which had now become very busy with a group of climbers and didnt allow much room for others to get on this specific area. However both of us were not willing to let go of our bushwack experience without climbing something! So we walked our way over to El Bobo which looked like it had a few routes on it.
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The first climb we did felt akward. My hands gripping to hard and my arms burning on a climb so easy we shouldnt have needed a rope. The rock broke off in my fingers in a few places and crumbled beneath my feet. This was not growing my confidence. We didnt finish the climb as it got difficult to a point where I could not feel safe continuing. Our first climb...skunked. The views made us feel good about the expierence however as we both knew this was just a small pebble in a big stream.
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We walked from the climb with a small feeling of defeat. Walking through the canyon was decided as the best way to lift our spirits.







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We walked back to the room with new ideas and inspiration to fuel our desires. We would not be beaten so easily!
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The next day would bring a test of my mind and my physicality. We went out to climb the easiest route we could find. A 5.7 route which went gingerly up the rock. As I was climbing I lifted my leg up for a hold and I felt an extreme pain in my back. I layed my head against the rock and held on with diminishing grip. I continued to the top as each step brought a renewed sense of pain in my back. I came back down and alerted Shasta to the happenings in my lower spine. We climbed 4 more routes that night each one brining me closer to my knees. It was a slow long walk back to the bungalow where I layed down and even that did not subside the pain. The night was long with me waking many times to scream into my pillow. The pain was growing and my sanity being lost slowly with the realization I would be unable to climb any longer. When it was finally morning I was virtually paralyzed. Standing took the better portion of 10 minutes. A few times Shasta tried to help me to my feet only to have me plea to let go. It was no good, there would be no climbing this day. I went into the doctor in Hidalgo and he was worried that there was blood in places there shouldnt be. This combined with only having one kidney made him not want to give me very strong pain medication. I wanted to argue, the pain was growing. Still what he did give me helped and I was able to hobble around town until we got a ride back to the bungalow. My suggestion from the doctor had been to see a specialist in Monterrey, an hour away and more money.
Next morning went much the same way. The pain near unbearable, still it helped to get up and walk for a bit. Shasta was amazing through this time as she took care of me and got me whatever I needed, even if I was adament at getting it myself. The specialist charged me $50 and gave me stronger meds plus a shot. It was enough to allow me to move and that night we went back to the bungalow. I didnt want to deprive Shasta of her climbing since my trip was going to be long but hers was only 10 days there so I went out and belayed for her. It was difficult not allowing myself to climb. It was a good learning day though as Shasta did her first outside lead and her first rappel on her own!
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The next morning proved more favorable. The drugs were kicking in and my back was easing up. It still took help and several minutes to get upright but once I was upright it didnt seem so bad. The wall of El Toro stood over the valley.
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We decided to climb a super easy 3 pitch route called Las Chimuelas as a test to see how well we climbed multipitch together and how well my back would hold up to the abuse.
Shasta on Las Chimuleas
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The route was really fun and the most painful parts were when I was hanging in my harness belaying for Shasta overall however I was feeling cheered that I could now climb and I knew even if we didnt get to do anything big we could atleast get climbs in. We continued on through the route.
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Getting around the cactus was a new and unexpected experience. We both knew we would leave with many battle scars.
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Having done the route without any issue, and about the slowest climbing that I have ever done in my entire life, I moved us to a slightly harder route with a little roof on it. I put on my harness and climbed the first portion of the route. Each foot lifted slowly and gently glided to its foothold. My hands moved as though I was suspended in water. A new type of moving was coming into my being as I tried to relax every muscle in my body as I moved. I began to feel very free as the rock flowed under my fingertips, the pain subsided as my mind distracted. Shasta would follow gracefully.
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The roof section of the climb had presented a small obstacle in my leading but I was able to pull through with a little slow effort. I was curious as to how Shasta would pull through it. She struggled a bit but once she sunk her hands into the large crack above the roof she had no trouble pulling up.
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We had done two great multipitch climbs. Not much difficulty but they were fun to get out and onto, this was the type of climbing we had come for anyway. At the top of our second climb we were all smiles. I dont know if it was more for the climb of for the fact that we both knew the trip wasnt over because of my injury and there were many more climbs to come.
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That day we talked about a goal and I mentioned "Our goal should be that one. Estrellita, a 12 pitch route with 2 pitches of 5.10b." For someone who was immobile just a few days before it seemed rather ambitious. I am a big fan of ambition. The night led to more tossing and turning. Each time I woke on my stomach it took some grunting to get me to my back. The morning brough much the same results as the last few mornings. Pain, but smiles. We were going climbing again today even if I had to wheel myself out. The painkillers kicked in as we walked up the hill towards our climb. I felt a need and a drive to do this climb which was called "Will the Wolf Survive". It would be our first test of a 5.10 rated climb in Potrero and it was the 4th pitch of the climb. It would indeed be a test.

As we jumped on the climb the fluidity I had felt the day before slowly vanished. I was tired, my hands shook, and my grip was uncertian. The medicine had began to effect my climbing. Still the rock was good so we continued on.
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We continued up through the 5.9 portions of the climbing up to the final pitch of the climb, the 5.10.

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I suppose we should have anticipated the the 5.10 portion was a slightly overhanging boulder which jutted out over the lip of where we currently stood. Looking at the next hand hold I could see that the first step onto this rock would produce an exposure of atleast 300ft. Shasta was nervous, I could see it in her face and hear it in her voice. That and she said "Cant we just call this the top." I heard a voice deep in my mind the words sounded familiar as some that had been said to me in almost the same situation came out of my mouth. "Youll hate yourself if you dont go to the top."...Did I just say that?
I pulled over the boulder and started the moves up. My arms felt week and my hands began to shake. I clipped the bolt and took a rest on one hand my mind uncertian of continuing. Although this was not normally my upper level of climbing it sure felt like it was at this moment. Suddenly I was gripped with the urge to look down. I turned my head so that I could feel the distance of me to the ground. It dropped away to another dimension and I let out a holler. My mind cleared and energy surged my body. I felt reborn and flew through the 5.10 portion as though it was a warmup. Shasta followed and did an amazing job. The summit gave us a view of the surrounding area of Hidalgo and Homeros where we were staying. After a few rappels to the ground we found the Wolf did indeed survive.
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The next day we didnt waste much time. We woke up really early to get a start on what I had suggested as a goal for the trip. Estrellita was going to be ours today! We got there moments after someone else had already started. We gave them a few pitches before we started the route and made quick time of the first few pitches. Our climbing together had become quite efficient and we made quick changes at the belays. The climbing was great with many different types of pitches. Shasta climbs here up pitch 4 or 5.
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We climbed through some fabulous pitches until we finally made it to the real test. The 5.10b which turned out being an excellent crack. I jammed my arm into the crack and headed up. These few pitches turned out being some of the best of the trip. Shasta was having a ball as the jammed herself into the crack.
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A view across the canyon at the Scrutinizer and Jungle Walls.
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Shasta continued her uphill battle through this enjoyable section. Each time she inched her way up a glimpse of satisfaction could be seen in her face.
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Once through it was hard not to tell the satisfaction in her smile.
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We read the summit register and enjoyed the view from the lone palm at the summit. Our goal was done, but we were long from being finished.
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We hiked back down to the valley and took the nice walk home. The 12 pitch route left us feeling great and both of us agreed werent so exhausted as the days before. Here is our route drawn in.
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While we had been staying in Homeros we met some really nice people named Nicole and Brandon who had driven down from Wyoming on a nice long road trip. They agreed to give us a lift to the Crescent Moon Buttress which is about 30 minutes away and we would climb as a group. We drove out to the buttress which was easy to spot.
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The Crescent Moon Buttress route is 8 pitches and climbs the obvious ridge in the center of the rock and comes complete with a Tyrolean Traverse and a walk or rappel into an archway.
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The climb was great fun and I was having a blast as we climbed over the easier sections. When we got the 5.10a in this climb I found myself struggling and really working hard. I made it through but not without leaving a good amount of sweat on the rock. Shasta followed and then we made the rappel down to the last two pitches of the climb.
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At the base of the rappel there is the opportunity to stem across and when you look ahead it looks like you are standing hundreds of feet of the ground.
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The last part of the climb was a nice meandering 5.7 or 5.8 which Shasta followed in style. Nicole and Brandon were about an hour behind but we could tell they were having great fun.
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When we had reached the summit of the peak we could see Brandon and Nicole preparing for the rappel to take them to the last two pitches. Can you see their heads?
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Ah at last the summit.
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Looking back we could see Nicole getting on rappel and having what appeared to be a grand ol time.
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While at the top of the peak we could see the mining. The Mexican government seemed to have a way of destroying a beautiful contryside. As I was getting ready to get back on rappel we heard this loud BOOM! When we looked down we could see a massive explosion coming from the mine, another one followed soon after.
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And then finally joined on the summit by Nicole and Brandon. Not seeming so anxious about the impending Tyrolean Traverse.

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After I had hooked up the Tyrolean and gone across it was no suprise to me that it was Shasta who decided to follow first. She took her breath and then just walked right out. Nicole and especially Brandon were nervous since neither they nor Shasta had ever done a tyrolean before. Shasta got out towards the center and said "Its not so bad, in fact im kind of disappointed." We all had a good laugh at that because Brandon now felt more then ever that he couldnt just turn around and say "No Thanks." and was being forced even more into going!
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Next up was Nicole, Brandon was still unsure about the whole operation. She took a few moments and triple checked her equipment.
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And then she was off!
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and then Brandon stepped up to the line. It was a shame I didnt get his face in the picture. I think if the rock fell from his feet he would have still been hanging from the rope. He did seem a bit tense!
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The one problem that there seemed to be with my setup was that the slings were a bit long on one end leaving for some really interesting tactics at getting our quickdraws off the rope.
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So thats whats keeping me from falling to my death....
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And then finally he was off. I could hear Shasta and Nicole say "You have to stop in the middle and look around a bit." his response was a hilarious "No thanks I did that already!". He was a great sport though and everyone really enjoyed the experience. No chickens in this group!
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We climbed one more route called the Fin the morning that we would leave and had climbed 40 pitches in 4 days. It was a really excellent trip and we both had an amazing amount of fun! This was the night before we left back for Mexico City.
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We stayed up a bit late into the night not willing to let go of our time in Potrero. There was one thing that I knew and I am sure she shared. This would not be a once in a lifetime event.
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Thanks for sharing this time and story with me. I hope that you enjoyed it!

Kelsey

Comments

  • CuongCuong Registered Users Posts: 1,508 Major grins
    edited January 18, 2008
    Excellent story as always.thumb.gif

    Cuong
    "She Was a Little Taste of Heaven – And a One-Way Ticket to Hell!" - Max Phillips
  • ian408ian408 Administrators Posts: 21,904 moderator
    edited January 18, 2008
    Your reports get better and better.

    The evenings in PC look as spectacular as the days.

    Best of luck with your back.
    Moderator Journeys/Sports/Big Picture :: Need some help with dgrin?
  • PrezwoodzPrezwoodz Registered Users Posts: 1,147 Major grins
    edited January 22, 2008
    ian408 wrote:
    Your reports get better and better.

    The evenings in PC look as spectacular as the days.

    Best of luck with your back.

    Thanks everyone for the comments! ;)
  • schmooschmoo Registered Users Posts: 8,468 Major grins
    edited January 22, 2008
    Kelsey,

    I'm glad you guys got to climb. I can't even imagine the feeling of getting to the summit of something like that, and knowing that you've done it all yourself to get to the top of the world. thumb.gif

    I'm not one to talk about taking it easy while recovering, but take it easy while recovering, eh? lol3.gif
  • gluwatergluwater Registered Users Posts: 3,599 Major grins
    edited January 23, 2008
    You and Shasta sure look like you're having a a great time. Those smiles of Shastas that you've captured really tell teh whole story. Most of us can't even imagine what you two are doing. Good luck with your back and on the rest of your journey.
    Nick
    SmugMug Technical Account Manager
    Travel = good. Woo, shooting!
    nickwphoto
  • PrezwoodzPrezwoodz Registered Users Posts: 1,147 Major grins
    edited January 23, 2008
    gluwater wrote:
    You and Shasta sure look like you're having a a great time. Those smiles of Shastas that you've captured really tell teh whole story. Most of us can't even imagine what you two are doing. Good luck with your back and on the rest of your journey.

    If I am correct you wont have to imagine it come October...will ya? ;)

    Thanks Schmoo Ill make sure to take it easy on my back. Although what im leaving for in about an hour may not be the best on it. Heh Ill post I think in a week. hopefully im allowed to take pictures!
  • GunGun Registered Users Posts: 8 Beginner grinner
    edited February 5, 2008
    This pic looks like he just hook on a sneaker laces compare to yours 3 folded thick rope :D
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  • waffleguy4waffleguy4 Registered Users Posts: 1 Beginner grinner
    edited February 28, 2011
    Really sweet EPC pictures - I especially like the tyrolean traverse shots!
  • JoiJoiJoiJoi Registered Users Posts: 108 Major grins
    edited February 28, 2011
    that's some nice climbing!

    Joi Cohen-Haroun
    Website :: Facebook :: Twitter
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