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#1 |
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Hold the meat
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Tutorial: How To Find Your Lens Nodal Point
David_S85
made up this awesome tutorial on how to find your lens' nodal point, for perfectly stitchable panoramas. I just did it, and it works perfectly! TIP: If you have no Pez dispensers, two candlesticks in candleholders will do nicely ![]() thanks David! ![]()
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Andy SmugMug COO, General Manager, House Pro & Dgrin Admin • Moon River Photography • League of Creative Infrared Photographers |
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#2 |
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vrooom!
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Mmmm, Pez! nice work Dave
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#3 |
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Immoderator
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Nodals?
I thought this was a family site? ![]()
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Sid. Catapultam habeo. Nisi pecuniam omnem mihi dabis, ad caput tuum saxum immane mittam http://www.mcneel.com/users/jb/foghorn/ill_shut_up.au |
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#4 | |
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Spotter of DGrin Forum Oddities & Spam
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Thanks guys. I had lots of other PEZ at my disposal -- many with much pointier heads, but Homer and Marge just seemed so right for this.
For those replicating this test with your own lenses, cams and pano heads, you should note that you don't even need to take any pictures to perform these calibrations (with a dSLR). Just look through your viewfinder and pivot your rig left and right. Manually focus somewhere between the targets and stop down the lens a bit (use depth of field preview to get a clearer view if necessary). I did this tute in portrait orientation (since that's the only way I shoot pano's), and the # of shots and swing degrees markings on the slide reflect portrait only (in case you shoot with identical gear). If you shoot your pano's in landscape orientation, your same front-to-back settings will work, but the number of shots will be very different from any you do in portrait. As for why in the world would one need to calibrate a slide for lenses anyway when you're shooting objects at near infinity away... well, you wouldn't really need to. But out in the field you might want to include a foreground object. Remember, there's always grass, leaves, stones and stuff on the ground in front of you. If you have ever attempted to eliminate stitch ghosting in post-processing then you know why calibration is so important. Also, if you shoot indoor pano's (real estate stuff), then its an absolute must-do excercise. Quote:
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#5 |
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Big grins
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 41
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Nice tutorial! Except it won't find the lens' nodal point ... and neither the lens' optical center. It will find the lens' entry pupil (or, to be precise, the point where the optical axis and the entry pupil intersect).
-- Olaf |
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#6 | |
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Hold the meat
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Quote:
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Andy SmugMug COO, General Manager, House Pro & Dgrin Admin • Moon River Photography • League of Creative Infrared Photographers |
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#7 | |
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Still learnin'still lovin
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Quote:
Would you be so kind as to explain the difference between the nodal point and the "point where the optical axis and the entry pupil intersect"? Is it still an appropriate method for calibrating a system for stitched panoramas? If not, what is an appropriate method and why? Thanks, ziggy53 |
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#8 |
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Big grins
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 74
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Thank you to Dave for writing the tutorial, and for Andy for posting the info
.Happy Hanukah to all! Thierry |
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#9 |
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Spotter of DGrin Forum Oddities & Spam
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OK, why don't we just call it the pivot point? And no matter what it's called, you just keep sliding the thing forward or backward to the place where nothing in the viewfinder/picture shifts when you're swinging the rig.
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#10 |
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salubrious
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K, so I'm going through this process, and all i have to say is NO FAIR!!!!
My L bracket has no marking for the center of the camera. So's I'm guessing! Nice tute, Dave!
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