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Indoor Sports Lighting
JSPhotography
Registered Users Posts: 552 Major grins
I put this up on accesories also but I would like sports shooters opinion.
Winter is here and I'm back to shooting indoor events. What kind of set up should I be looking for? Once a month I shoot equestrian, show jumpers, in a pole barn construction, wood rafters but white insulation in the ceiling. I can also shoot some gyms(wrestling and basketball) and a factory building being used for offroad RC car. I saw a guy shootting wrestling with 2 alien bees bounced off the ceiling fired off pocket wizards that seems like a good way to go. He was covering a gym with about 8 mats going. I'm guessing 1600s. Ideas?
Winter is here and I'm back to shooting indoor events. What kind of set up should I be looking for? Once a month I shoot equestrian, show jumpers, in a pole barn construction, wood rafters but white insulation in the ceiling. I can also shoot some gyms(wrestling and basketball) and a factory building being used for offroad RC car. I saw a guy shootting wrestling with 2 alien bees bounced off the ceiling fired off pocket wizards that seems like a good way to go. He was covering a gym with about 8 mats going. I'm guessing 1600s. Ideas?
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My first thought was "what? your a Canon guy, we have high speed sinc, I shot a full summer of dirt track racing at night with no problems". And then it was duh, the high speed sinc is on the flash unit. Can't i run my exposure below ambient and then use the flash for isolation?
Either I figure out some lighting or I have to a get a different body to handle high ISO better than my 40D. I don't think I can do better than my 70-200 2.8 for glass. The range is perfect, shorter but faster is not going to work.
The sports also depend on if you can even use flash... some won't let you.. so, something to consider as well.
This was a pretty dark indoor shoot. ISO 6400, 2.8, 3.2 sometimes.. but shutter really hovered around 320 or 250
http://www.jimkarczewski.com/Sports/Wrestling/Middle-school-tourney-Lake/14556923_D9DVW
The photo 'info' says ISO 3200, SS 1/200.
http://www.knippixels.com
This is a repost of my reply to another similar post:
HSS/FP mode does not necessarily stop action any better than normal flash sync.
A focal plane shutter travels at the same rate regardless of the shutter speed rating. At faster shutter speeds the leading and trailing edges of the shutter form a slit which travels across the image plane. Since the slit takes the same amount of time to cross the image plane regardless of the width of the slit, any subject motion that occurs during the exposure will record as subject distortion. There is a good description of the cause and effect here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Focal-plane_shutter
http://webs.lanset.com/rcochran/flash/hss.html
Notice the image distortion that can occur, even with HSS/FP flash.
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/6f/Bundesarchiv_Bild_183-1991-1209-503,_Autorennen_im_Grunewald,_Berlin.jpg
Stationary target:
http://webs.lanset.com/rcochran/flash/medres/turnedoff.jpg
Spinning target with HSS/FP mode flash (1/4000th):
http://webs.lanset.com/rcochran/flash/medres/s4000.jpg
Spinning target with normal flash sync, but low power (1/250th):
http://webs.lanset.com/rcochran/flash/medres/flash.jpg
Conversely a speedlite used in a single pulse has a typical duration of 1/600th or so, effectively much better at stopping subject motion. At lower power output the flash duration is even shorter. Hummingbird photographers often use multiple, synchronized, low power flashes to produce sufficient light but with extremely short durations.
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Haha. I switched later in the match to bump up to 1/320. I think I started (those were all earlier in the 5 hour day) at 3200 just because the Nikon guy was shooting at 6400.
Looks like your iso was 3200-4000 on pg 1. Really good work at that iso, very impressive
Rags
No noise reduction either, if you can believe it. Didn't touch anything.. but did shoot Medium Jpg all day.. thinking that the sizing down in camera reduces the noise, or so it seems based on my use of the 5DII and sports so far....
I can't go to 6400 on my 40D and 320 or 250 will not cut it for a horse flying over a jump.
Now this is interesting. I shoot everything in RAW. If I drop to a medium jpeg I can reduce the noise?
Something you'd have to play with.. I don't know anything but the 5DII. I would think so, because you are halving the number of pixels (at least M Fine on my cam is 11MP.) So you are combining 4 pixels into 1, which should, in theory, reduce noise. This is what some of the new sensors do on the sensor itself, call "binning" where it combines 4 pixels into 1 to give you a lower signal->noise ratio... which I assume is better than sizing down, but still, sizing down works just fine in camera.