Ball Head Recommendations

[tpower]

QUESTION: Looking for opinions/advice on the choices between Kirk, RRS, Arca Swiss, and Acratech ball heads and between particular models within the recommended brand - double pan vs. single pan; flip lock vs screw lock for quick release, etc...

BACKGROUND:
Tripod: Gitzo 2530
Lenses: Canon EF 100-400mm zoom and smaller
Use: General Purpose, including backpacking and hiking. Shooting birds and wildlife. Airshows.

Thank you,
Tommy

[Scott_Quier]

FWIW - I've had the ultimate ballhead Acratech Ultimate Ballhead (http://acratech.net/product.php?productid=7&cat=1&page=1) for more than just a couple of years now and have not had ANY problems with it. I've actually mounted the EF 100-400 on it and it was rock steady (or at least enough for my needs).

Were I to buy another ballhead, I think I would take a serious look at the Acratech V2 Ballhead (http://acratech.net/product.php?productid=9&cat=1&page=1).

[DavidTO]

RRS BH40 LRII (http://reallyrightstuff.com/RRS/Customkititems.asp?kc=BH-40-LR-II&eq=)

[Richard]

RRS BH40 LRII (http://reallyrightstuff.com/RRS/Customkititems.asp?kc=BH-40-LR-II&eq=)
+1

Very sweet.

[tpower]

Thank you very much for the input. I would like to dig a little deeper before I make this purchase:

Why do you love the Acratech?
What makes the RRS so sweet? (Would love to hear from Andy on this, too).
Why has no one yet mentioned the unit that was my front-runner until I started reading posts to this board (Arca Swiss Z1 with double pan and the screw-style (as opposed to flip lever) quick release)?I am looking primarily for:

Differentiators between these units,
Pros (why I will be glad I bought the unit and passed on the others), and
Cons (what will make me wish I had bought something else).

Thanks!
Tommy

[Scott_Quier]

See embedded responses:
Thank you very much for the input. I would like to dig a little deeper before I make this purchase:

Why do you love the Acratech?
It's light
It's solid - When you lock it down, it stays there - no issues, no worries.
If used the ballhead in 0 degree weather and in 100+ degree weather. The rubberized nobs are easy on the hands.
There's no lubrication on the ball to collect dirt/grit
If the ball does get dusty - it's a simple job to clean it
Dealing with the people (I found a need to call them when I screwed up an order) - they corrected the order over the phone with no hassles. - Very easy to deal with.


Differentiators between these units,
Pros (why I will be glad I bought the unit and passed on the others), and
Cons (what will make me wish I had bought something else).I hvae found one con - there are three knobs on the device and it's sometimes easy to get them mixed up when you have your eye to the viewfinder. Doesn't happen much any more, but in the beginning it was something I needed to pay a little more attention to.

Thanks!
Tommy

[Richard]

What makes the RRS so sweet? (Would love to hear from Andy on this, too).

Precise, solid, zero-maintenance and not too big or heavy. The lever quick release is fast to use and pretty much impossible to screw up. The variable tension adjust lets you choose how easily the camera will move before you lock it down. I like the ergonomics of the lever lock down knob as well, as it seems surer to me when wearing gloves in winter than a round knob.

What I can't offer is a comparison to other high-end ball heads, as what I had previously was not in the same league. Thinking about it, I don't think I have ever seen a post from an unsatisfied RRS customer. Poorer, yes, to be sure. :wink

[claudermilk]

I can only echo what Richard said. That pretty much sums up my feelings on the BH-40-LRII. Each control is different (lever for main locking, a knurled knob for preload, and a 4-lug knob for the pano base lock--easy to ID by feel). As with Richard this has been my only high-end head I've owned, but barring purchase of any really big guns, I don't anticipate ever needing another. It's a joy to use.

[DavidTO]

RRS is the only gear to buy when it comes to ballheads and pano gear.

[tpower]

RRS BH40 LRII (http://reallyrightstuff.com/RRS/Customkititems.asp?kc=BH-40-LR-II&eq=)

Thanks, David. I found the following note on the RRS site regarding this unit:

"A note about choosing the BH-40 LR II ballhead:</B< font> The clamp that comes installed on this ballhead is our full-size B2 AS II clamp. This clamp is larger than the clamp that comes installed on the BH-40 LR ballhead. If the diameter of your tripod platform is larger than the base diameter of the ballhead (2.1"/53mm) you may experience clearance issues when using the drop notch. The larger B2 AS II clamp cannot freely clear wider platforms because the head itself has such a low profile. This is not an issue if you only use L-plates, but we strongly urge you to choose the BH-40 LR ballhead instead of the BH-40 LR II ballhead if you use conventional body plates."

So my question to you is: Do you use "conventional body plates" and if so, has this created any problems for you?

[DavidTO]

No, RRS L plates only. :deal

[Richard]

So my question to you is: Do you use "conventional body plates" and if so, has this created any problems for you?

I also use an L-plate, so I have hardly ever used the drop notch. If you are really sure that you will only be shooting landscape orientation, then it is not an issue, but if not it would be wise to pay attention to the warning. One of the nice things about RRS is that they tell it like it is.

[DavidTO]

I also use an L-plate, so I have hardly ever used the drop notch. If you are really sure that you will only be shooting landscape orientation, then it is not an issue, but if not it would be wise to pay attention to the warning. One of the nice things about RRS is that they tell it like it is.


Yeah, there's really not much sense in having a great ballhead like that and then not using an L plate. :dunno

[tpower]

I also use an L-plate, so I have hardly ever used the drop notch. If you are really sure that you will only be shooting landscape orientation, then it is not an issue, but if not it would be wise to pay attention to the warning. One of the nice things about RRS is that they tell it like it is.

David, Richard,

This is great information. I probably want to reserve the capacity to use the drop slots, as I would like to be able to change from landscape to portrait on the fly.

What am I giving up by going with the LR instead of the LR II, other than a large clamp lever and (I believe) the spirit level?
How important have you found the large clamp lever and spirit level to be in your work?
I am quite the noob, and have never used an L-plate. My understanding is that you cannot use an L-plate to go to portrait on the fly, but if this is not correct, please re-calibrate me.Thanks again,
Tommy

[DavidTO]

David, Richard,

This is great information. I probably want to reserve the capacity to use the drop slots, as I would like to be able to change from landscape to portrait on the fly.

What am I giving up by going with the LR instead of the LR II, other than a large clamp lever and (I believe) the spirit level?
How important have you found the large clamp lever and spirit level to be in your work?
I am quite the noob, and have never used an L-plate. My understanding is that you cannot use an L-plate to go to portrait on the fly, but if this is not correct, please re-calibrate me.Thanks again,
Tommy


You're missing the point of the L bracket. It allows you to change from landscape to portrait faster, easier and without changing the center of focus. It's betterer. And the reason the why the size of the base of your tripod isn't an issue is that you don't need to use that feature because you have a better feature. :deal

[Richard]

You're missing the point of the L bracket. It allows you to change from landscape to portrait faster, easier and without changing the center of focus. It's betterer. And the reason the why the size of the base of your tripod isn't an issue is that you don't need to use that feature because you have a better feature. :deal

The drop notch also forces you to use the panning base to move left and right, so you have to lock down twice. To me, this seriously reduces the convenience of a ball head.

[tpower]

You're missing the point of the L bracket. It allows you to change from landscape to portrait faster, easier and without changing the center of focus. It's betterer. And the reason the why the size of the base of your tripod isn't an issue is that you don't need to use that feature because you have a better feature. :deal

Hmmm. It is clear that I do not fully understand LB usage. I get that you are saying that the LB obviates the need to use the slot, and therefore the tripod base clearance issue goes away. I just guess I need a tutorial on LB usage. If I frame a shot in landscape and then decide I prefer portrait, then to use the LB, don't I have to take the camera off the head, install the LB, and then re-install?

Puzzled,
Tommy

P. S. With the 100-400 this shouldn't be an issue because of the rotating lens mount ring, right?

[Richard]

Hmmm. It is clear that I do not fully understand LB usage. I get that you are saying that the LB obviates the need to use the slot, and therefore the tripod base clearance issue goes away. I just guess I need a tutorial on LB usage. If I frame a shot in landscape and then decide I prefer portrait, then to use the LB, don't I have to take the camera off the head, install the LB, and then re-install?

Puzzled,
Tommy

P. S. With the 100-400 this shouldn't be an issue because of the rotating lens mount ring, right?

No need for the slot. My L-bracket never leaves my camera. All you need to do to switch orientation is open the quick release, reposition the camera and close the release lever again. Takes about 10 seconds. The bracket is machined on the bottom and on one side. The RRS bracket is finished well enough that it never bothers me when I am hand-holding, which is most of the time.

I believe you are correct about the 100-400 mount, but I don't have one myself.

[OffTopic]

I can't imagine life without my RRS L-plate. :thumb


I have an Arca-Swiss B1 with QR (the precursor to the Z1). I was torn between that and the RRS, but RRS was so backed up with orders at the time and I didn't want to wait. I absolutely love my Arca-Swiss, build quality is exceptional, the fluid movement of the ballhead is a thing of beauty, I just love it and it really made me enjoy using a tripod again. But two things to keep in mind; one, it's on the heavy side (although the Z1 is a little smaller and lighter than the B1, and the weight is comparable to the RRS BH-55), and two there is only one certified repair shop for Arca-Swiss in the entire US and it's in Chicago. I spent a little too much time in the desert dust last winter/spring without properly protecting my tripod head and now I really should have it taken apart and cleaned, but I don't know how I'm going to do without my tripod head for a couple of weeks. (And they're a little too pricey to have a backup on standby:rofl).

[DavidTO]

Takes about 10 seconds.


Only if your buddy is holding one of your arms behind your back and you're forced to close the quick-release with your tongue. :deal

[Richard]

Only if your buddy is holding one of your arms behind your back and you're forced to close the quick-release with your tongue. :deal

You mean that's not the way to do it? Guess I better RTFM...

[davidweaver]

I have a 2530ex with a bh-55LR. Got the 55 over the 40 as I wanted something I would use in studio and that the slight extra weight was okay if I was packing gear.

Get the larger plate on the bh40. it about 1.5 inches wider. Get "L" plates for your gear. Everything said about why to do is true in my experience.

It's worth the expense.

Cheers,
David

[Manfr3d]

I own the Acratech UMB V2 and my girlfriend the UMB. Both
work absolutely fine. Very light, durable, comfortable. I can
only recommend it. It holds my 70-200/2.8L very steady,
I doubt that it would be anydifferent with your 100-400. :thumb

[cmason]

The point of the L plate is that you do not have to move the ball head at all. You simply quick release the camera and L plate, change orientation and start shooting. this is especially useful when you dont have level ground, and you spent considerable time leveling your camera on the ball head. If you use the ball head to switch orientations you have to futz with it to ensure it is level again.

Btw I am eyeing the Kirk BH3, since it is very well respected, comparable to the RSS and cheaper. YMMV

[gryphonslair99]

If you ever get bigger glass take a look at the Bruzynski tripod head. It's expensive, but it is rock solid and designed for big glass.

http://www.naturfotograf.com/burzynski.html

It's not a head for everybody, but it is rock solid, easy to use and with an Arca Swiss QR on the top it is hard to beat in a lot of ways.

[tpower]

No need for the slot. My L-bracket never leaves my camera. All you need to do to switch orientation is open the quick release, reposition the camera and close the release lever again. Takes about 10 seconds. The bracket is machined on the bottom and on one side. The RRS bracket is finished well enough that it never bothers me when I am hand-holding, which is most of the time.

I believe you are correct about the 100-400 mount, but I don't have one myself.

I am still missing something here. With an L-bracket, don't you have to remove the camera/bracket assembly from the head, rotate it 90 degrees, and re-attach to the head in order to change from landscape to portrait or vice-versa? How is this not a more time-consuming operation than just releasing the ball, dropping into the slot, and retightening, which I envision taking 2-5 seconds?

Seems there may be some key bit of understanding that I am missing here, some additional complication that comes with the no-L-plate scenario. Is it the pan adjustment? I did not really follow what was said about that...

Thanks for bearing with me, guys.

[DavidTO]

I am still missing something here. With an L-bracket, don't you have to remove the camera/bracket assembly from the head, rotate it 90 degrees, and re-attach to the head in order to change from landscape to portrait or vice-versa? How is this not a more time-consuming operation than just releasing the ball, dropping into the slot, and retightening, which I envision taking 2-5 seconds?

Seems there may be some key bit of understanding that I am missing here, some additional complication that comes with the no-L-plate scenario. Is it the pan adjustment? I did not really follow what was said about that...

Thanks for bearing with me, guys.


When you move the ballhead everything moves and you need to recompose. When you use the L bracket you're still pointing in the same direction, only having changed the orientation. It's easier to snap the quick release, slide the camera out and back in than it is to mess around with the ballhead. You've only got a couple of drop slots for putting the ballhead at 90 deg. as well, so you will most likely have to move the entire tripod to get the shot lined up. It's really a PITA. Trust us. :deal

[tpower]

When you move the ballhead everything moves and you need to recompose. When you use the L bracket you're still pointing in the same direction, only having changed the orientation. It's easier to snap the quick release, slide the camera out and back in than it is to mess around with the ballhead. You've only got a couple of drop slots for putting the ballhead at 90 deg. as well, so you will most likely have to move the entire tripod to get the shot lined up. It's really a PITA. Trust us. :deal

Thanks very much for the explanation. Very helpful (and persuasive). I will be going the L-bracket route and will likely purchase the RRS BH40 LRII as well. If anyone out there feels the need to convince me otherwise, time is running out!

[ian408]

tpower,

Go to www.reallyrightstuff.com and have a look around. There are some excellent guides that explain what makes RRS the best selection for your needs.

I have been a very satisfied RRS customer for some time (brackets, pano gear and ball head).

If I was to compare my RRS head to the Acratech, I would say the RRS is more intuitive and easier to use. The Acratech can be a challenge when you're trying to get things moved around in a hurry. This is especially true going between orientations. In my opinion, the Acratech is not as good a choice for a heavier setup (which matters to me).

I use my BH-55 with a Sidekick fairly regularly. I don't think this would be as easy nor as stable with the Acratech.

Don't let my comments dissuade you from Acratech. It's well crafted and in most instances, will perform well. However, you have a heavier camera/lens setup, you might want to consider the RRS gear instead.

[claudermilk]

Once you have used an L-bracket, you'll wonder why you waited so long. Yes, you do have to flip the lever open, rotate the camera, and close the lever. That is about the 2-5 seconds you mention--but without the subsequent recomposing due to camera movement. There is no downside to using an L-bracket over the drop notch...except maybe the cost difference and that is only once and fades quickly. Really, we wouldn't all be singing the praises of the BH-40LRII + L-bracket so loudly & long without good reason. :D

Oh, and with the long lenses using their own feet, the whole rotation thing becomes moot. But we all mount short lenses as well as long. I do. It's not the cheapest solution, but in practice it's by far the best & worth the cost.

[rpcrowe]

The L-bracket is THE BEST WAY to mount a non-tripod ring equipped camera/lens on an Arca compatible quick release system.

http://reallyrightstuff.com/QR/05.html

Giottos and manfrotto have their versions of a generic L-bracket but, they are not camera specific and not anywhere near as slick as the RRS L-bracket.

Here's something very unusual about the Acratech heads. I saw an Acratech ball head (new but, blemished) selling on eBay. I emailed Acratech asking if the dealer was an "authorized vendor" for Acratech products and if the warranty would be in effect if I purchased the head on eBay. Acratech responded to say that they honor their lifetime warranty even if the head is purchased used. Not too many other manufacturers have that kind of liberal policy.

[tpower]

RRS BH40 LRII (http://reallyrightstuff.com/RRS/Customkititems.asp?kc=BH-40-LR-II&eq=)

Ordered from RRS this evening:

Gitzo GT2531
RRS BH40 LRII
RRS L-plate for camera
RRS lens plate for 100-400mm

Got an automated e-mail saying that some of this may be out of stock :pissed. None of the items showed "out of stock" on the site, but the ball head also did not show "in stock" -- there was no designation. I am hoping the e-mail statement is a CYA on the part of RRS and that "may be out of stock" does not mean "is out of stock."

That e-mail kind of put a damper on what was otherwise a pretty exciting evening. I have to wait until tomorrow to call and find out what the status is...

[claudermilk]

Once you get all those goodies, you're going to love them. :D

[lightyear]

RE: conventional vs. L plates.

I use both. I have an L plate on my D200, and a conventional plate on my backup body D70. I use an Araca Swiss B1 (I think it is the smaller model for 35 mm and medium format bodies), and have borrowed (to compare)the RRS unit. I think the RRS is easier to use, and it is lighter and appears to have the same ridigidity as the Arca Swiss. I know several shooters who sold their AcraTechs for RRS. Hope this helps.
Stan

[tpower]

Once you get all those goodies, you're going to love them. :D

All the stuff has arrived, and it is all wonderful. On my first outing, however, I had trouble with a couple of things coming loose and would like the benefit of your collective experience and wisdom:

The ballhead seems to unscrew too easily for my liking from the tripod base (Gitzo 2530) - I wish there were a keyway or something like that to keep this from happening. As long as the pan screw is loosened, I am O.K. but if the pan is screwed down and I happen to forget, there is not much resistance to unscrewing the ballhead from the tripod. Should I just torque the poo out of it? I generally am very careful with threaded stuff when the threaded parts are not hardened steel. I do not believe the Gitzo stud or the RSS threaded hole are made of the sort of stuff you can just torque until you bust a knuckle... Has anyone else experienced this problem? Is there a fix other than just tightening more or being more careful not to apply any reversing torque when the pan screw is tight on the BH? It just seems way too easy to apply enough reverse torque to undo this connection.
The RSS lens plate loosened up while I was out shooting this evening. Unlike their camera plates, this one does not seem to have anything other than friction to resist relative rotation between the lens foot and the lens plate, which strikes me as a problem easily designed around. They did it with the camera plates; why not with the lens plates? Again, I prefer not to torque this screw with all my strength. I have stripped too many hex head drives like this, and this screw appears to be stainless steel (at best), which is notorious for hex-head-stripping. Any thoughts?
Should I "go gimbal" and add a Wimberly Sidekick to the BH if I want to shoot birds in flight from the tripod? I am using the Canon 100-400; not exactly a howitzer as Canon lenses go...

[kdog]

The RSS lens plate loosened up while I was out shooting this evening. Unlike their camera plates, this one does not seem to have anything other than friction to resist relative rotation between the lens foot and the lens plate, which strikes me as a problem easily designed around.

The rear end of the plate should be turned up at a right angle, forming an L. The lens foot needs to be shifted all the way back so that it's snug against the L. It absolutely will not budge this way and needs no excessive torque at all on the mount screw to do so.


2. Should I "go gimbal" and add a Wimberly Sidekick to the BH if I want to shoot birds in flight from the tripod? I am using the Canon 100-400; not exactly a howitzer as Canon lenses go...

I've a full Gitzo/RRS setup and yet always hand-hold my 100-400. The IS on this lens is a wonderful thing. If you want to use a tripod on it, then a sidekick is a great way to go.

[tpower]

[quote=kdog]The rear end of the plate should be turned up at a right angle, forming an L. The lens foot needs to be shifted all the way back so that it's snug against the L. It absolutely will not budge this way and needs no excessive torque at all on the mount screw to do so.
quote]

Thanks, kdog. Yes, there is a lip at the back of the plate, just as you say, and I did have the foot pushed up snug against it. And it (absolutely) did budge. If the plate had a proper hole instead of a very long slot, then this would work to prevent rotation. The problem is, that unlike their camera plates which are custom made for a particular body, this is a one-plate-fits-many design. Thus the slot, and thus the problem.

I may see if I can come up with a modification that will fix the problem...

[DavidTO]

[quote=kdog]The rear end of the plate should be turned up at a right angle, forming an L. The lens foot needs to be shifted all the way back so that it's snug against the L. It absolutely will not budge this way and needs no excessive torque at all on the mount screw to do so.
quote]

Thanks, kdog. Yes, there is a lip at the back of the plate, just as you say, and I did have the foot pushed up snug against it. And it (absolutely) did budge. If the plate had a proper hole instead of a very long slot, then this would work to prevent rotation. The problem is, that unlike their camera plates which are custom made for a particular body, this is a one-plate-fits-many design. Thus the slot, and thus the problem.

I may see if I can come up with a modification that will fix the problem...


You could contact them and ask them about the problem, as well.

[kdog]

Thanks, kdog. Yes, there is a lip at the back of the plate, just as you say, and I did have the foot pushed up snug against it. And it (absolutely) did budge. If the plate had a proper hole instead of a very long slot, then this would work to prevent rotation.

Below is a picture of what mine looks like, so we can be sure we're talking about the same thing. The plate simply cannot twist with the lens foot wedged into the L as long as the screw in the slot is tight. Now I do know from experience, if the foot isn't tight against the flipped-up L, then it will twist and loosen. I played around with mine on the tripod, and I can't make it budge.

The only thing I can think of is that you have an extra long screw on yours and it's bottoming out in the hole on the lens foot before it gets tightened down. I have about 1/4" protrusion on mine.

[tpower]

Below is a picture of what mine looks like, so we can be sure we're talking about the same thing. The plate simply cannot twist with the lens foot wedged into the L as long as the screw in the slot is tight. Now I do know from experience, if the foot isn't tight against the flipped-up L, then it will twist and loosen. I played around with mine on the tripod, and I can't make it budge.

The only thing I can think of is that you have an extra long screw on yours and it's bottoming out in the hole on the lens foot before it gets tightened down. I have about 1/4" protrusion on mine.

Quite correct. It cannot twist as long as the screw in the slot is tight. When the screw is not tight, however, it can and will move. I don't think my screw is bottoming out, but I may just not have tightended it enough. What is happening is that the screw is coming loose. I have torqued it down pretty good and plan to be out shooting all day tomorrow, so we will see. Have you walked around with the camera on the tripod slung over your shoulder much with this lens on the camera?

By the way, thank you very much for taking the time to take/post that shot. Yes, it looks just like mine does.

David, thanks for the suggestion. I did try to contact RSS during business hours today, but got a recording. I did not have a chance to get back with them to discuss this. I will post back here after tomorrow's outing.

[kdog]

My pleasure, and glad to help. My guess is you'll be fine after you tighten that one bolt. I know how that goes. The first outing with my brand new $600 Gitzo legs, a foot dropped off during my travels and rendered the tripod unusable. Man was I pissed. Turned out they were all loose. Once tightened, of course I've had no problem since. The things we learn. :rolleyes :rofl

[tpower]

I had an incredible day of shooting birds on the upper Texas Gulf Coast. Spent all day traipsing around Bolivar Flats, Anahuac NWR, and High Island Smith Oaks Sanctuary. And, as kdog suspected, I seem to be O.K. after man-tightening that screw on the lens plate. I also really torqued the BH-to-tripod connection. Neither loosened up on me at any point during the day.

I also experienced the same loose tripod feet syndrome on my Gitzo 2531 that kdog described. As with kdog, all of mine were loose, which I noticed the first time I went to telescope the legs in. I screwed the feet in as hard as I could by hand, and did not have any further trouble.

The bottom line: I could not be happier with my recent purchases:

Canon 100-400mm
RRS BH 40 Ball Head
RRS B2 LR II Clamp
Gitzo 2531 Tripod
B&W Filters
RS-60E3 Remote Switch

Thank you to those here who steered me toward the RRS gear. This stuff just reeks of simple quality and ruggedness. As an engineer and as a photographer, and even just as a human being, this stuff is a joy to operate.