Prezwoodz
Dec-10-2007, 09:46 AM
Dane and I went up to Ptarmigan Peak yesterday to see if we could find the route Only Hookers Get The Blues (http://www.alaskaiceclimbing.com/hookers.htm) (WI4-WI6) but we were not really planning on going there per say so I forgot to look online and see where it was first! We were able to pick it out however after seeing the peak and started our way up. The weather was not to bad a little wind and clear weather, it was looking good. We didn't have our ski's ready so we walked out and it was my first hike since I hurt my knee a week ago so it was slow going. Unfortunately a little to slow as we ate up a bunch of time getting out. We hiked up to the base of the climb through the S gully on pretty hard snow. By the time we got to the base of the climb the weather had deteriorated, a snow had moved in and the wind picked up. We were getting pretty well licked by spin drift coming down the face and the hard ice didn't feel as pleasant when it was hammering my helmet. Basically it was a fun belay! When Dane had finished the first section it was already about 2:30 - 3:00pm and we knew we wouldn't be able to finish the climb before nightfall so we took all the factors in and headed down. I was the smart one who forgot my headlamp, thats just silly. It was a good day though and I really enjoyed it!
Dane gearing up for the climb:
http://prezwoodz.smugmug.com/photos/230727113-L.jpg
Ptarmigan Peak, Hookers is in the center of the photo the short line of ice at the top of the lower portion of gully.
http://prezwoodz.smugmug.com/photos/230750165-L.jpg
And here it is again from the trail.
http://prezwoodz.smugmug.com/photos/230751125-L.jpg
Dane getting a little drink before the climb.
http://prezwoodz.smugmug.com/photos/230751881-L.jpg
Heading up the gully. Hookers is on the top left of the photo.
http://prezwoodz.smugmug.com/photos/230752609-L.jpg
This gully is steeper then I had initially thought. It was fun to come down!
http://prezwoodz.smugmug.com/photos/230753326-L.jpg
Standing at the base of the climb. I was off to the right of the start and after watching the constant ice that actually missed me I felt pretty good about not standing underneath. On top of this first portion of ice is a ledge with a mess of broken ice and snow which is really loose. The harder pitch is visible above.
http://prezwoodz.smugmug.com/photos/230745356-L.jpg
Standing at my belay as Dane gets ready to climb. The snow coming down the mountain was enough to fill me in at this spot.
http://prezwoodz.smugmug.com/photos/230745839-L.jpg
Dane getting after it.
http://prezwoodz.smugmug.com/photos/230746414-L.jpg
Blurry here but shows the drift coming down.
http://prezwoodz.smugmug.com/photos/230747284-L.jpg
This rock face is to the right of the hookers further down the gully. There were 3 people climbing on here and turned out to be Carl, Roman, and Scotty. Look close they are actually in this picture. They would later fly by us on their skis.
http://prezwoodz.smugmug.com/photos/230748086-L.jpg
One more for the way down. My camera got pretty covered with snow here so it was the last time i brought it out.
http://prezwoodz.smugmug.com/photos/230749169-L.jpg
Dane gearing up for the climb:
http://prezwoodz.smugmug.com/photos/230727113-L.jpg
Ptarmigan Peak, Hookers is in the center of the photo the short line of ice at the top of the lower portion of gully.
http://prezwoodz.smugmug.com/photos/230750165-L.jpg
And here it is again from the trail.
http://prezwoodz.smugmug.com/photos/230751125-L.jpg
Dane getting a little drink before the climb.
http://prezwoodz.smugmug.com/photos/230751881-L.jpg
Heading up the gully. Hookers is on the top left of the photo.
http://prezwoodz.smugmug.com/photos/230752609-L.jpg
This gully is steeper then I had initially thought. It was fun to come down!
http://prezwoodz.smugmug.com/photos/230753326-L.jpg
Standing at the base of the climb. I was off to the right of the start and after watching the constant ice that actually missed me I felt pretty good about not standing underneath. On top of this first portion of ice is a ledge with a mess of broken ice and snow which is really loose. The harder pitch is visible above.
http://prezwoodz.smugmug.com/photos/230745356-L.jpg
Standing at my belay as Dane gets ready to climb. The snow coming down the mountain was enough to fill me in at this spot.
http://prezwoodz.smugmug.com/photos/230745839-L.jpg
Dane getting after it.
http://prezwoodz.smugmug.com/photos/230746414-L.jpg
Blurry here but shows the drift coming down.
http://prezwoodz.smugmug.com/photos/230747284-L.jpg
This rock face is to the right of the hookers further down the gully. There were 3 people climbing on here and turned out to be Carl, Roman, and Scotty. Look close they are actually in this picture. They would later fly by us on their skis.
http://prezwoodz.smugmug.com/photos/230748086-L.jpg
One more for the way down. My camera got pretty covered with snow here so it was the last time i brought it out.
http://prezwoodz.smugmug.com/photos/230749169-L.jpg