Cypress Tree at Sunset

[Dixie]

Cypress Tree at Sunset, Lake Moultrie, near Moncks Corner, South Carolina

http://dixie.smugmug.com/photos/6206453-M.jpg

http://dixie.smugmug.com/photos/6206451-M.jpg

This is what it looks like in the daytime.

http://dixie.smugmug.com/photos/6206450-M.jpg

[Harryb]

Cypress Tree at Sunset, Lake Moultrie, near Moncks Corner, South Carolina

This is what it looks like in the daytime.


Hey Dixie,

There you go again posting these outstanding pics. I just love the colors you get into your shots. Are these colors the result of the filters you are using?

[Tim Kirkwood]

:thumb :thumb


I like the first one alot! Very Very nice:D


Tim

[Khaos]

I love your pics!

Not that there's anything wrong with that.

Seriously, keep 'em coming.:thumb :thumb

[KimballPhotography]

I've driven through Monks Corner many times...how come I've NEVER seen anything quite like this:huh ???:wxwax ???:scratch Stunning shots, once again you've made me drool:lust

[windoze]

wow! those can take your breath away!!!



troy

Cypress Tree at Sunset, Lake Moultrie, near Moncks Corner, South Carolina

http://dixie.smugmug.com/photos/6206453-M.jpg

http://dixie.smugmug.com/photos/6206451-M.jpg

This is what it looks like in the daytime.

http://dixie.smugmug.com/photos/6206450-M.jpg

[Cosmic]

Amazing shots. Truly. :lust


~Heidi~

[Dixie]

Hey Dixie,

There you go again posting these outstanding pics. I just love the colors you get into your shots. Are these colors the result of the filters you are using?Harry, no filters with these. The center photo is how the colors actually appeared. I punched the top one with saturation. The daylight shot I pushed with a little brightness and contrast. The slight reddish hue close to the horizon is due to the low angle of the sun behind me in the daylight shot.

I shot manual but used spot metering and took my reading from the sky in the top two photos making sure that the sun wasn't in the frame while metering. I have a light meter, but normally use spot metering in the camera for incidental readings. Then I will take a test shot and check the histogram to make sure that I am in the ballpark. If I err on the histogram it is because I tend to push it to the left side of the scale because I've found I can bring out more detail from dark areas then I can from washed out areas. In those cases where the graph runs off both ends of the scale, I will stop down or increase shutter speed until I bring the bright end within scale even if the dark area pushes out of scale even further. Photoshop CS's Shadow/Highlight tool works great for working with this situation. Of course, if you shoot RAW then you can correct some of it when you bring the image into Photoshop.

The bottom photo was spot metered center of mass on the tree. I spot meter on the portion of the subject which I consider the most important (usually a lighter area) and that which would be the hardest to bring out in Photoshop if I have to adjust it. Of course, the bottom photo was the easiest with metering because the sun was directly behind me and fairly low since it was taken around 7 AM so no harsh shadows to fight.

Another example of metering for the area which I want to emphasize is the one in "Reflection on Yosemite" http://www.dgrin.com/showthread.php?t=7550. On it I meter both the reflection of Half Dome and on Half Dome itself. There was approximately 2 stops difference with the reflection requiring 2 stops more light. I then manually set for the reflection and used +2 ND graduated filters to knock down the top portion of the frame to get the correct exposure for the real Half Dome. If I had done it any other way either Half Dome would have been washed out or the reflection would be way too dark.

[Dixie]

I've driven through Monks Corner many times...how come I've NEVER seen anything quite like this:huh ???:wxwax ???:scratch Stunning shots, once again you've made me drool:lust
Natalie, this cypress tree is located at the Navy's Short Stay Outdoor Recreation Area on Lake Moultrie just outside Moncks Corner.

http://www.shortstay.nwschs.navy.mil/

If you go to the following link and see the grounds layout map, look for campsites 12-16 and the tree is directly off shore from these campsites. Best time to shoot is early morning and (of course) later afternoon until sunset. A day that is clear to party cloudy is best. I tend to like some clouds. If someone is in the campsites just ask their permission (not required, but helps make friends) to shoot from the shoreline.

http://www.shortstay.nwschs.navy.mil/grounds_map.htm

Thanks for the compliments and if you have any further questions just give me a shout.

[Harryb]

Thanks for the info Dixie. I also expose to the left and for the main subject when I shoot. I also like to used graduated ND filters when I'm shooting landscapes. I just wish I could get the same results you do. Thanks againfor the very informative response.

Harry

[Dixie]

Thanks for the info Dixie. I also expose to the left and for the main subject when I shoot. I also like to used graduated ND filters when I'm shooting landscapes. I just wish I could get the same results you do. Thanks againfor the very informative response.

HarryHarry, I don't know if it makes any difference or not, but I virtually always shoot at ISO 100 (for best color) and I prefer high f/stops (greater than f/11). I will normally do my meter reading in the Av mode and then switch to manual to set for the shot. Since I do most of my landscapes from a tripod, I really don't care what the shutter speed is. I enable mirror lock-up and then use a cabled remote to first lock the mirror then I count to 6 slowly and then release the shutter.

I have shot all the way to 30 seconds without any noticeable noise using this technique.

Below is a shot from a tripod at 8 seconds shot at f/32. From the foreground to the background is probably better than a 100 feet. Focal length used was 135mm. ...and for those who are interested, this is a shot of a small stream near a little grist mill on the Roaring Fork Nature Trail road just outside Gatlinburg, TN.

[Dixie]

One more illustration of shooting long exposures. This really isn't a shot that I would do anything with, but I took it just to see if I could get the shot. The photo was also taken along the Roaring Fork Nature Trail.

Shot with the Canon 10D using an EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM lens at 28mm. The exposure was for 30 seconds at f/22 and ISO 100. Tripod mounted using mirror lock-up and remote cable release. No filters. The sun had set, but it wasn't completely dark yet (you couldn't drive a car without headlights being on). Shot RAW.

[Harryb]

One more illustration of shooting long exposures. This really isn't a shot that I would do anything with, but I took it just to see if I could get the shot. The photo was also taken along the Roaring Fork Nature Trail.

Shot with the Canon 10D using an EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM lens at 28mm. The exposure was for 30 seconds at f/22 and ISO 100. Tripod mounted using mirror lock-up and remote cable release. No filters. The sun had set, but it wasn't completely dark yet (you couldn't drive a car without headlights being on). Shot RAW.
Wow! Those are sweet. One of the things I have to start doing is to use my tripod more. I usually use it in low light situations but using it with long exposures and stepped down apertures for landscapes makes a lot of sense. I definitely will be giving it a try.

[Dixie]

Wow! Those are sweet. One of the things I have to start doing is to use my tripod more. I usually use it in low light situations but using it with long exposures and stepped down apertures for landscapes makes a lot of sense. I definitely will be giving it a try.
Now, you can give me some techniques for shooting birds in flight. Most of mine show the bird half out of the frame and out of focus. :dunno

[Dixie]

Wow! Those are sweet. One of the things I have to start doing is to use my tripod more. I usually use it in low light situations but using it with long exposures and stepped down apertures for landscapes makes a lot of sense. I definitely will be giving it a try.
One other trick that I didn't mention earlier, but if you are going to attempt long exposures use the heaviest tripod you have. Then it really helps to put damper weights on the tripod as well. I happen to use my Tamrac lens and equipment belt which weights in at about 20 pounds. I always turn my lock handle for the center post up and hang the belt on it and it hangs down between the legs of the tripod. You will be pleasantly surprised by the sharpness you will get by using damper weights on your tripod for any exposure over a half a second.

If you use IS lens, remember to turn the IS off or you will hear your lens knocking as the gyros try to stabilize the lens elements when they are already stabilized. :):

[Steve Cavigliano]

All 3 are excellent. The richness of color and the spot on exposures :thumb :thumb
Any of the three would look fantastic as a mounted print :-)
I'm with the majority. I really enjoy your pics :clap Now that you've got a fan base, you need to keep posting pics to satisfy us :rofl


Thanks for sharing these,
Steve

[Dixie]

Thank you, Steve. Your comments are greatly appreciated.