Which prime lens for landscapes?

[Ginny]

I'm just getting back into photography after 7 years away. I do a lot of traveling (mostly on my motorcycle) and shoot a ton of landscapes. When I shot 35mm, I used a 28mm f/1.8 USM non-stop for my landscapes. I am picking up a 30D tomorrow and wanted to get some opinions on a landscape lens. I'm buying the body with the 17-85mm f/4-5.6 IS USM for my travel "snap shots" and I was thinking about the EF 20mm f/2.8 USM for my landscapes.

This will be my first time playing around with a "cropped" digital and I appreciate any opinions or suggestions. Thanks!

[aktse]

My favorite landscape lens is the EF-S 10-22mm, and since it's a EF-S, you don't have to worry about the 1.6x crop factor.

I haven't done too much with it, but whenever I loan it out, people don't want to give it back to me.

http://aktse.smugmug.com/photos/136526650-S-1.jpg

I've even used it as a walk around lens.

[macmac]

I like my 17 to 55mm f/2.8.

[Ginny]

You know Joe ... I would love to have the 17 to 55mm f/2.8 and I thought about the price ... then I just realized the 17 to 85mm and the 20mm 2.8 that I was going to start out with is actually the same price combined as the 17 to 55mm. I think that's the way to go. I'm never too crazy about zooms (I was raised old-school with single focal-length primes being "the best") but I think I'll see how the images turn out first.

Now I just have to talk the wife into not just getting a new camera for our trip, but getting her to agree that I HAVE to drop 2 grand at once. I hope she sees it my way, we leave on Friday! :D

Thanks!

[tobers]

That's the spirit. You know it makes sense! Do you have a good solid tripod as well :D

I have the 17-55 as well. It's a top lens, very impressive. Note that if you are using Cokin P filters, the standard holder shows up in the frame when you are using 17mm focal lengths. They do a low profile holder which I'm waiting for at the moment.

[Pezpix]

I use the 24mm f1.4 and the 35mm f1.4 for landscapes but honestly, you could easily use the 35mm f2 and save some big money. In most instances, I find myself lining up most of my landscape shots using my 24-70 as a start point and then see what I end up closest to. Honestly, most the time, I end up using the 35mm quite a bit more than all other focal lengths for landscape which was a suprise.

Depending on what exactly you are wanting to do, I would highly recommend the 24mm TS-E & 45mm TS-E lens (The 24mm TS-E is really soft around the edges though) for landscapes as well. They are both excellent choices for landscape work :thumb

[sirsloop]

I think you will be real dissapointed with the 17-85IS... bad CA and real bad barrel distortion. Selling mine was the most joy I ever got out of it! In other words, don't waste your money on it!!!!!!!!!!! Get a body-only kit!

I really enjoy shooting with the 35/2. It may be a touch too long for a real big landscape... thats where the 10-22 really shines! Some stuff is just too damn big for even a 20mm prime.

http://photos.tallmanphoto.com/gallery/2374842#124420103
10mm...
http://photos.tallmanphoto.com/photos/124420103-L-1.jpg

<dreaming of a 5D and a 16-35L II> :D

[LiquidAir]

These days the top end zooms are quite good for stopped down photography like most landscape work. On my 5D, my standard landscape kit is the 24-105/4L, 45 TS-E, 135/2L, 200/2.8L and 1.4xTC. The primary advantage of a prime is the superior bokeh. At the wide end I almost always stop down enough to get everthing in focus so I am rarely worried about bokeh so he primes I keep in my bag are telephotos where DoF is more of an issue. The 45 TS-E mostly gets used for architecture.

25-105 @ f/14 and 32mm -- stopped down enough to get the whole scene in focus; the IS lets me handhold shots like this without worry. This image is sharp enough to print 20x30.
http://gallery.liquidairphoto.com/photos/154008249-M-1.jpg


45 TS-E f/11 -- Definitely a tripod shot. I used a shift here to keep the verticals parallel.
http://gallery.liquidairphoto.com/photos/154696527-M.jpg

200mm/2.8L at f/2.8--here I have an out of focus background and I care what it looks like; even a good zoom would have made hash out of it.
http://gallery.liquidairphoto.com/photos/90525825-M.jpg

Getting funky with the 35/1.4L at f/1.6--bokeh really matters here, but I don't play this game very often so I rarely pack that lens when I go into the field. If I had stopped down to f/16 to get everything in focus, this shot would have looked great on the 24-105.
http://gallery.liquidairphoto.com/photos/114243862-M.jpg

[Glenn NK]

Zooms have improved immensely.

You haven't asked me, but if you did, I would recommend just buying the 30D body and then the 17/55 EFS lens.

Concerned about its quality?

http://www.fredmiranda.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=303&sort=7&cat=27&page=3

http://www.photozone.de/8Reviews/lenses/canon_1755_28/index.htm

I have his lens, and optically it is easily equal to my 24/105L. It should, they are about the same price, but I've never regretted the 17/55 purchase.

If you're into really wide angle, there is the Canon 10/22, the Tokina 12/24 (which I have) and the equivalent Sigma.

[DavidTO]

Without a doubt, the 24 Tilt/Shift lens. I don't own it, but it's on my short list. Go on a workshop with Marc Muench, and he'll show you the magic of this lens. :D

[henrytd]

Without a doubt, the 24 Tilt/Shift lens. I don't own it, but it's on my short list. Go on a workshop with Marc Muench, and he'll show you the magic of this lens. :D
I agree with David. I don't own one (yet), but it would be my first choice for landscapes. Tilt/ shift is not just for architectual photography: it can be used for creating two shot panorama pictures, both vertical and horizontal, and for creative focusing of near and far objects. Marc demonstrated it's many virtues during the Wild Utah workshop, and probably will do so again next September in Glacier park.

Keep an eye out for pictures demonstrating these capabilities when the Wild Utah results are posted.

[CatOne]

Without a doubt, the 24 Tilt/Shift lens. I don't own it, but it's on my short list. Go on a workshop with Marc Muench, and he'll show you the magic of this lens. :D

Ooooh. YES.

Now that's sorta $ for a Canon "prime" lens and it has some real unique features (hello, view camera holdouts!) but frankly it's the only lens I think I'd ever really need as a landscape prime. Because the 17-40 is a very good landscape lens (you don't really need f 2.8 for landscapes on a tripod), and is not that expensive and I think obviates the need for a zoom. But the 24 TS can do perspective correction and give you significantly more DOF when you know what you're doing.

:clap :clap :clap :clap :clap

The ONLY two prime lenses I'd ever consider would be the 24 TS (landscapes) and the 85 1.2 (portraits). Other than that the zooms do an excellent job.

[Ginny]

It's very interesting that the 17-40 f/4 L came up. I am going to have to sleep on which one I go with overnight since I pick up my camera in the morning ... but I keep hearing and reading about that lens instead of the 17-85. I'll let everyone know what I do, but the 24mm TS-E is going to have to make it's way into my bag ... I just don't think it's going to make it in time for this trip, thought. Thanks for all the great ideas and opinions!!!

[HoofClix]

..is the landscaper's mantra, Ginny..

I'm not a Canonite (and not trying to stoke that fire) so I don't know your equipment so well, but I think that if you got that 30D kit with that lens, that's probably all you need, other than a tripod. If you're trying to do landscapes where you want every angle and every depth to be clear, you don't need the capabilities of an f2.8 lens.

So save your money and just set your camera on the pod, set it for f8, or even higher if you want, set the timer to 10 seconds,compose the shot, press the shutter, and back off. You'll be happy.

[Glenn NK]

..is the landscaper's mantra, Ginny..

I'm not a Canonite (and not trying to stoke that fire) so I don't know your equipment so well, but I think that if you got that 30D kit with that lens, that's probably all you need, other than a tripod. If you're trying to do landscapes where you want every angle and every depth to be clear, you don't need the capabilities of an f2.8 lens.

So save your money and just set your camera on the pod, set it for f8, or even higher if you want, set the timer to 10 seconds,compose the shot, press the shutter, and back off. You'll be happy.


I would agree with this sound advice. The only thing I would add is to use Mirror Lockup in conjunction with the timer (which on a 30D reduces to two seconds which is likely long enough for mirror vibrations to dampen out).

I suggested the 17/55 not because of the f/2.8 speed, but because of its excellent optical properties. The f/8 or higher advice is good too, as is the tripod. IMO, a tripod is one of the first essentials for landscape photography.

[HoofClix]

And after reading my previous post, I want to clarify, as I guess I figured folks were reading my mind:

So set your camera on aperture priority on f8, or higher, and let the shutter speed fall wherever it should based on the ISO. Set the shutter timer to 10 seconds (not a shutter speed of 10s), or less if you are confident, compose and take your shot.

Glenn is right about the quality of the glass in the f2.8 lens. It will have much better color reproduction, and since it is ground and polished more accurately, you will also have better image accuracy over the entire image. I only said to hold off on buying that one, as I've spent a lot of money on lenses only to find that it was the other one I meant to buy.. (But what's the harm in having an extra lens?)

[Andy]

(The 24mm TS-E is really soft around the edges though)
It is? :scratch Not for me.... look for a whole bunch of 24 TSE shots from me (processing now).

[Pezpix]

It is? :scratch Not for me.... look for a whole bunch of 24 TSE shots from me (processing now).

Honestly, it really does depend on the copy. I've spoken to several photographers who have really hated the edge softness and chromatic abb using that lens, but on the flipside, some others swear by it. Seeing that its the only L glass TS-E lens, the build quality is excellent, but it really does need a mark II upgrade similar to the 16-35 to help with those of us shooting with full-frame sensors.

Oh yeah, fwiw, my 24mm f1.4 also is a bit soft and has a bit of CA but it is to be expected.

Personally I wish Canon would change up their TS-E's to rotate the tilt axis the other direction natively. :thumb

[Andy]

Personally I wish Canon would change up their TS-E's to rotate the tilt axis the other direction natively. :thumbMine is modded - easy to do, Canon charges $100 or less....

[Pezpix]

Mine is modded - easy to do, Canon charges $100 or less....

Did they charge you even as a CPS member? Also, was it still under warranty? I'd like to hope I can sneak it in there under the one year warranty and have them cover the cost :D

[Andy]

Did they charge you even as a CPS member? Also, was it still under warranty? I'd like to hope I can sneak it in there under the one year warranty and have them cover the cost :D
No, as CPS member, it's no charge.

[wxwax]

The Utah shoot seems to have made the 24 TSE the hot lens. Why?

[DavidTO]

The Utah shoot seems to have made the 24 TSE the hot lens. Why?


Well, Marc did the same thing with it that he did at Bryce. It makes perfect 2 shot panos, that you stitch together. It works great with bigger panos, you do 1 up, 1 down, move the camera over, 1 up, etc. It effectively increases the resolution of your camera. It's also great for taking shots of foreground images (a clump of flowers, for instance) and a background element (hoodoo, or butte, or something). It's a versatile, powerful lens for landscapes.

[ziggy53]

Well, Marc did the same thing with it that he did at Bryce. It makes perfect 2 shot panos, that you stitch together. It works great with bigger panos, you do 1 up, 1 down, move the camera over, 1 up, etc. It effectively increases the resolution of your camera. It's also great for taking shots of foreground images (a clump of flowers, for instance) and a background element (hoodoo, or butte, or something). It's a versatile, powerful lens for landscapes.

It also effectively increases your angle-of-view (stitched panos), yielding the same possibilities as a shorter focal length lens in a single shot.

[wxwax]

Well, Marc did the same thing with it that he did at Bryce. It makes perfect 2 shot panos, that you stitch together. It works great with bigger panos, you do 1 up, 1 down, move the camera over, 1 up, etc. It effectively increases the resolution of your camera. It's also great for taking shots of foreground images (a clump of flowers, for instance) and a background element (hoodoo, or butte, or something). It's a versatile, powerful lens for landscapes.
Thanks, David.

I'm being dense, I know: why can't you do all of the above with a non-TSE lens?

[DavidTO]

Thanks, David.

I'm being dense, I know: why can't you do all of the above with a non-TSE lens?


I don't know all the answers, but it makes getting a 2xwhatever pano much easier.

Take a picture, shift down, take another. Move the camera. Take a picture, shift up, take another. If you had to move the camera up and down as well as side to side you'd be struggling. Plus add the ability to tilt as well, and to extend the DOF to suit your scene....it's a really handy lens to have.

[wxwax]

It also effectively increases your angle-of-view (stitched panos), yielding the same possibilities as a shorter focal length lens in a single shot.

Am I understanding you correctly? You're saying that with a TSE you need fewer frames to make a pano?

Is that the benefit?

I always thought a TSE was intended to correct perspective distortion (as well as give you finer control of depth of field.)

[DavidTO]

Am I understanding you correctly? You're saying that with a TSE you need fewer frames to make a pano?

Is that the benefit?

I always thought a TSE was intended to correct perspective distortion.


That's just one thing it's good for, and the one thing that it's best known for.

[wxwax]

I don't know all the answers, but it makes getting a 2xwhatever pano much easier.

Take a picture, shift down, take another. Move the camera. Take a picture, shift up, take another. If you had to move the camera up and down as well as side to side you'd be struggling. Plus add the ability to tilt as well, and to extend the DOF to suit your scene....it's a really handy lens to have.
So its appeal for landscapes lies largely in the mechanical ease with which it can execute panos?

[DavidTO]

So its appeal for landscapes lies largely in the mechanical ease with which it can execute panos?


It can take two perfectly lined up images. If modified, vertical OR horizontal. To do a vertical pano with that precision you'd need a whole huge rig. Plus it can tilt, which can correct distortion, as you noted, and can also extend the DOF for a landscape shot.

The only time Marc took his off was for the occasional Fisheye or long Telephoto shot. The 24 T/S is his main lens. 90% of his shooting, easy.

Andy never took his off, apparently. :D

In order to get the full benefit, you need to modify the lens. This means taking out 4 screws and rotating the assembly 90°, then rescrewing it. Canon will do this for you for $100, if you dare not do it yourself. I'd have them do it, and when I find one, I will. :D

[wxwax]

Thanks David.

[Andy]

Thanks, David.

I'm being dense, I know: why can't you do all of the above with a non-TSE lens?
There will be distortion if you use your ballhead to tilt a normal lens up/down. The TS-E uses straight up/down action to move the lens. Very cool. They stitch together with no errors at all. And you can maneuver in tight spaces nicely :) Example here:
http://www.dgrin.com/showthread.php?p=559833#post559833

[Pezpix]

I do believe that I've pinched my fingers with the TS-E's more than anyone on earth FWIW :rofl

I still think of the three of them, the 45 TS-E is my favorite in terms of quality/usefulness. That being said, the 24 would easily stay in my bag full-time for wildflower season.