wholenewlight
Mar-16-2006, 06:51 AM
Since early in the year, I've been trying to post a picture-a-day as part of the "Daily Photos" smugmug photo community (http://cs-pics.smugmug.com/community/DailyPhotos) (started by Sebastian Hosche (http://rainforest1155.smugmug.com/)).
A few of the pics I have posted are "Holga" shots. What is a Holga shot? Here's a quote (from this link (http://www.apogeephoto.com/july2001/plastic_fantastic.shtml)):Put simply, a Holga is a twenty-dollar, medium-format plastic camera. The characteristics that make it special are the same things that would make any other camera a “lemon”--light fall-off, lack of sharpness, distortion, accidental double exposure, flare, or any combination of the above. These “problems” are precisely why many Holga users own a handful of the cameras-- one for every special effect.Some people love the look and feel, some think the idea is silly - I'm in the first group. These are not Ansel Adams Yosemite pictures! They look dark and moody, usually nostalgic, snapshot-like, with a "capture the moment" flavor.
http://cs-pics.smugmug.com/photos/60114700-M.jpg
Today, when I posted the above shot, I received the following request:
Love your holga effect on this one and it's a great capture, too! Totally works for me.
Any chance you'll show the original and share a bit of your post process knowledge to get this kind of effect?
So, I decided I would answer the request here with this post.
First, here's the original:
http://cs-pics.smugmug.com/photos/60115306-M.jpg
Shooting the shot
I've thought about buying an actual $30. Holga, Lubitel, or Diana toy camera. I've played with them before. But I've come to the decision, why? I don't want to be bothered with film and really, it's the effect I'm want to play with, not the camera itself. But I have been criticized that my shots are fakes. So be it.
So with my expensive Nikon, I go looking for "cheap" :): Holga shots. Shots that have:
a good square format look
simple composition
maybe a dramatic element in the shot or some action or movement
maybe a "nostalgic" look, since the true Holga shots tend to have that lookPost Processing
Photoshop post-processing is my key to these shots (as you might imagine). There is a great "Holga Simulator" Action at Adobe Studio Exchange. Here's the Link (http://share.studio.adobe.com/axAssetDetailSubmit.asp?aID=/6756) to the action. Tips for download and installation are also found at the link (and as part of the downloaded file). I know there are other PS Actions available and I've tried some, but this is my choice.
Here's my simple steps:
This PS Action has certain characteristics that you will quickly find out. It's going to make your shot vignetted, darker, grainy, and contrasty. I usually play around with some levels and curves prior to "holga-izing" my shot. This will be trial & error with your shots. Just try some different versions of the same shot with the simulator action and see what you like.
I add an USM filter even though the PS Action is going to make the shot softer (especially in certain parts of the frame). I want to start off with a sharp shot.
Then I run the Holga Simulator Action from the History/Actions pallette.
The PS Action is non-destructive - it adds layers to create the effect. The different layers are adjustable for different effects.
http://cs-pics.smugmug.com/photos/60121282-S.jpgClick Here (http://cs-pics.smugmug.com/photos/60121282-L.jpg) for a large version of the screen shot
The PS Action creates 6 Layers: Grain, Saturation, Levels, Luminance/Contrast, Mask, and Vignetting
To adjust each effect, adjust the "Fill" slider of that level
Grain - I usually adjust this layer substantially and sometimes delete it. I think the action adds too much grain.
Saturation - this layer adjusts the amount of color in the shot, ie: 100% is a black and white shot, 0% is a color shot.
Levels - this layer does what it says but it seems to adjust contrast more than brightness. 100% = most contrast, 0% = least contrast.
Luminance/Contrast - this layer seems to adjust brightness more than contrast. 100% = darker, 0% = lighter.
Mask - this layer adds the darkened edges for the effect of film that isn't being held flat
Vignetting - exactly what it is, simulating the light falloff of a cheap plastic lens.Go to this gallery to see more shots using this technique - Link (http://cs-pics.smugmug.com/gallery/722646)
Different viewpoints for different eyes . . .
http://cs-pics.smugmug.com/photos/59367899-S.jpg
A few of the pics I have posted are "Holga" shots. What is a Holga shot? Here's a quote (from this link (http://www.apogeephoto.com/july2001/plastic_fantastic.shtml)):Put simply, a Holga is a twenty-dollar, medium-format plastic camera. The characteristics that make it special are the same things that would make any other camera a “lemon”--light fall-off, lack of sharpness, distortion, accidental double exposure, flare, or any combination of the above. These “problems” are precisely why many Holga users own a handful of the cameras-- one for every special effect.Some people love the look and feel, some think the idea is silly - I'm in the first group. These are not Ansel Adams Yosemite pictures! They look dark and moody, usually nostalgic, snapshot-like, with a "capture the moment" flavor.
http://cs-pics.smugmug.com/photos/60114700-M.jpg
Today, when I posted the above shot, I received the following request:
Love your holga effect on this one and it's a great capture, too! Totally works for me.
Any chance you'll show the original and share a bit of your post process knowledge to get this kind of effect?
So, I decided I would answer the request here with this post.
First, here's the original:
http://cs-pics.smugmug.com/photos/60115306-M.jpg
Shooting the shot
I've thought about buying an actual $30. Holga, Lubitel, or Diana toy camera. I've played with them before. But I've come to the decision, why? I don't want to be bothered with film and really, it's the effect I'm want to play with, not the camera itself. But I have been criticized that my shots are fakes. So be it.
So with my expensive Nikon, I go looking for "cheap" :): Holga shots. Shots that have:
a good square format look
simple composition
maybe a dramatic element in the shot or some action or movement
maybe a "nostalgic" look, since the true Holga shots tend to have that lookPost Processing
Photoshop post-processing is my key to these shots (as you might imagine). There is a great "Holga Simulator" Action at Adobe Studio Exchange. Here's the Link (http://share.studio.adobe.com/axAssetDetailSubmit.asp?aID=/6756) to the action. Tips for download and installation are also found at the link (and as part of the downloaded file). I know there are other PS Actions available and I've tried some, but this is my choice.
Here's my simple steps:
This PS Action has certain characteristics that you will quickly find out. It's going to make your shot vignetted, darker, grainy, and contrasty. I usually play around with some levels and curves prior to "holga-izing" my shot. This will be trial & error with your shots. Just try some different versions of the same shot with the simulator action and see what you like.
I add an USM filter even though the PS Action is going to make the shot softer (especially in certain parts of the frame). I want to start off with a sharp shot.
Then I run the Holga Simulator Action from the History/Actions pallette.
The PS Action is non-destructive - it adds layers to create the effect. The different layers are adjustable for different effects.
http://cs-pics.smugmug.com/photos/60121282-S.jpgClick Here (http://cs-pics.smugmug.com/photos/60121282-L.jpg) for a large version of the screen shot
The PS Action creates 6 Layers: Grain, Saturation, Levels, Luminance/Contrast, Mask, and Vignetting
To adjust each effect, adjust the "Fill" slider of that level
Grain - I usually adjust this layer substantially and sometimes delete it. I think the action adds too much grain.
Saturation - this layer adjusts the amount of color in the shot, ie: 100% is a black and white shot, 0% is a color shot.
Levels - this layer does what it says but it seems to adjust contrast more than brightness. 100% = most contrast, 0% = least contrast.
Luminance/Contrast - this layer seems to adjust brightness more than contrast. 100% = darker, 0% = lighter.
Mask - this layer adds the darkened edges for the effect of film that isn't being held flat
Vignetting - exactly what it is, simulating the light falloff of a cheap plastic lens.Go to this gallery to see more shots using this technique - Link (http://cs-pics.smugmug.com/gallery/722646)
Different viewpoints for different eyes . . .
http://cs-pics.smugmug.com/photos/59367899-S.jpg