Just got into photography looking for feedback

[R&R]

Hello everybody. I am new to the forums and just started getting into photography. I have been taking pictures for about 6 months and have learned alot but I want to learn so much more. I have a coolpix 5700 camera. I am happy with it because I have never had a different camera and I don't know what I am missing. Anyway, enjoy some of my pictures and let me you know what you think. Please give suggestions so I can continue to improve.

When I went to visit my mother I found these flowers in the backyard after a rainstorm.

http://randr.smugmug.com/photos/7774754-M.jpg


http://randr.smugmug.com/photos/7774761-M.jpg

I am a pilot for the airlines and I took this shot out my window somewhere around Mississippi or Alabama. I find it very hard taking pictures out an aircraft window. Tried to do touchups with Arcsoft Photostudio. I like the program but it seems everybody likes Photo shop. Is this something I should invest in or is Arcsoft just as good?

http://randr.smugmug.com/photos/7774764-M.jpg

Very first day I got my camera when I took this shot on Sanibel Island near Ft. Myers Florida. I was proud of it that day but I think I have gotten better.

http://randr.smugmug.com/photos/7772648-M.jpg

[DJ-S1]

:wave Hi R&R, welcome to the asylum. This is a great place to learn, and there are lots of helpful folks here. I'm a noobie myself so I'll let the experts do the critiquing, but I think you've got some nice work there!

I've used other editing programs, and they can do a nice job but there's a reason PS is the defacto standard. It does just about anything you want, and since it's the 800lb gorilla there's tons of books and wedsites out there to help you figure out all the bells and whistles. Dgrin's own Cletus is a master, and very helpful to us noobs.

Have fun!

[lynnma]

Hello everybody. I am new to the forums and just started getting into photography. I have been taking pictures for about 6 months and have learned alot but I want to learn so much more. I have a coolpix 5700 camera. I am happy with it because I have never had a different camera and I don't know what I am missing. Anyway, enjoy some of my pictures and let me you know what you think. Please give suggestions so I can continue to improve.

When I went to visit my mother I found these flowers in the backyard after a rainstorm.






I am a pilot for the airlines and I took this shot out my window somewhere around Mississippi or Alabama. I find it very hard taking pictures out an aircraft window. Tried to do touchups with Arcsoft Photostudio. I like the program but it seems everybody likes Photo shop. Is this something I should invest in or is Arcsoft just as good?



Very first day I got my camera when I took this shot on Sanibel Island near Ft. Myers Florida. I was proud of it that day but I think I have gotten better.

Welcome to the forum R&R!!:D this is a great place to learn and play. Dont be afraid to post any or all of your shots...and don't forget to check in for the challenge! we have a different one every couple of weeks or so and they are great fun and force us to "get out" and take shots we would not normally go for. I like your flower shots and the cloud shot... there are experts here that will help more than I with critique so check back often.
Lynn

[GREAPER]

All this talk of experts, now I am affraid to say anything....


Awww what the heck.

The first one is nice but I think it would have been nicer without the out of focus flower in the background, it is the same color as the others and I think its distracting.

The second is much nicer, I would blur the fence in the upper left a little more so it doesn't look like... well.. a fence. I would also clone out some of the bright spots below the flowers, they are brighter than the subject and pull the eye away.

The third one is awesome. A little more detail in the ground might be nice but I dont know how to tell you to get it, a little more contrast maybe? The veiw and the shot are something most of use dont get to see. The windows up front must be cleaner than the ones I always get to look out of because I would never be able to get that shot from the cheap seats.

The fourth on is a nice composition but is in SERIOUS need of a polarizing filter, this would greatly reduce the bright reflected glare, give it more color and make the backlighting on the bird much more effective. If there is only one filter you buy for each of your lenses, I think it should be a polarizor.

Just humble opinions from a non-expert.

[tmlphoto]

I agree with your comments Greaper. I'd love to see #3 with the contrast bumped up a little. thanks for sharing. Keep shooting & posting.

[R&R]

I appreciate all the advice. I enjoy people looking at my photos and telling them what they need. Here are some more photos out of the airplane.

Milwaukee

http://randr.smugmug.com/photos/8823760-L.jpg

The picture says it all

http://randr.smugmug.com/photos/8823758-L.jpg

The Falls looking toward Canada

http://randr.smugmug.com/photos/8823764-L.jpg

http://randr.smugmug.com/photos/8823771-L.jpg

The original picture people liked

http://randr.smugmug.com/photos/7774764-L.jpg

The attempt at a fix. Thanks for the advice.

http://randr.smugmug.com/photos/8823755-L.jpg

[hutchman]

I liked #3 from the original set. I decided to play with it a little - hope you don't mind!


http://hutch.smugmug.com/photos/8825993-M.jpg
It came out different. I'm not sure it is better or worse than the original or if I even like it. But it was fun to work with.

I really like the original.

Hutch

[R&R]

Not offended in the least. I don't really know much about this sort of stuff but I can see what I like and don't like. I really like the concept of what you did with the shot, but now my eyes go even more towards the scratches in the window.

Just my extremely humble opinion.

[DJ-S1]

Wow, the 4 new shots are terrific, especially the Falls. For the Milwaukee and St. Louis photos I was wondering if the "haze cutter" USM settings would have any effect, I think they are around 30,60,1? I don't have PS here at work so I can't try it.

[R&R]

Say that in English.:D I am so knew at all of this I don't even know what that refers to. Please explain and help out a newby.

As I have said before I am using Arcsoft Photostudio for touchup. I probably can't do any of that with that progam. I am looking to buy something though. I looked at consumer reports and the Microsoft photo editing program got good reviews. Would that program be able to do what you are talking about or am I better off getting Photo Shop Element. I can not afford the good Photo Shop. I might get frustrated as well because I read it has an extremely high learning curve.

[R&R]

I am in St Louis today and I got some pictures. Here is the first.

http://randr.smugmug.com/photos/8845180-L.jpg

[lynnma]

Say that in English.:D I am so knew at all of this I don't even know what that refers to. Please explain and help out a newby.

As I have said before I am using Arcsoft Photostudio for touchup. I probably can't do any of that with that progam. I am looking to buy something though. I looked at consumer reports and the Microsoft photo editing program got good reviews. Would that program be able to do what you are talking about or am I better off getting Photo Shop Element. I can not afford the good Photo Shop. I might get frustrated as well because I read it has an extremely high learning curve.I think Photoshop Elements would be good R. I'ts a strong program with just about everything you need. USM is unsharp mask. Its to sharpen the shot. Dont worry bout not understanding.. there are STILL things I have to ask about all the time. No biggy:D Elements is my opinion.. ask around tho.
Lynn

[DJ-S1]

Say that in English.
Sorry! I'm used to being the one who doesn't understand around here! I was in a hurry when I was posting and I didn't realize how much jargon has crept into my head... I just started a few months ago, and the learning curve really isn't that bad. If I can do it, you can. Can't be more difficult than figuring out what all of those 3,277 switches in the cockpit do!

As Lynn said, unsharp mask is a filter that sharpens images. It's my favorite toy! There are 3 settings, can't remember the names at the moment, but I read somewhere that 30,60,1 are good settings to remove haze.:dunno Maybe one of the gurus can confirm for us.

[GREAPER]

You keep posting stuff like this and we will be asking you for your advice.

[DJ-S1]

You keep posting stuff like this and we will be asking you for your advice.
:roll We should all live so long to see that day! Thanks, Greaper! :lol3

[DJ-S1]

Okay, so now that I'm at home, (and the kids are asleep!) I can play with Photoshop. I really wanted to try the haze reduction on R&R's shots, so I chose St. Louis. Here's the original:

http://daveorama.smugmug.com/photos/8860951-M.jpg

Nice shot, but hazy and blue. So here's the effect of unsharp mask at 30, 60, and 1, which I read does wonders for haze:

http://daveorama.smugmug.com/photos/8860950-M.jpg

That's pretty cool! So then I changed the levels; red, green, blue individually since the histograms were very different for each. That produced this:

http://daveorama.smugmug.com/photos/8860948-M.jpg

And then just a little more contrast makes this:

http://daveorama.smugmug.com/photos/8860947-M.jpg

R&R, don't worry about the jargon, you'll pick that up easily. What you should know is that this took me, a 3 month once-in-a-while Photoshop user, 3 minutes to do. It took twice as long just to make this post! The experts could make it even better, but this gives you an idea of what is possible.

Soooo...wanna pick up some software and start playing with your photos??? http://daveorama.smugmug.com/photos/6618462-O.gif I warn you, it's highly addictive!! :wink

[wxwax]

Wow, nice job with the Photoshop. I've been struggling with some bad shot taken a couple of weeks ago, I'm going to try some of your techniques.

Love the Falls shots, and also the reflection of the Arch. Very cool.

[R&R]

That was amazing how you edited those shots. If I buy Photo shop element will I be able to do that? The rest of the St. Louis shots. Just got home today.

http://randr.smugmug.com/photos/8885347-M.jpg

I can't decide if I like this one black and white or color. Actually I like both. I was thinking one of these might be a good shot for the contest this week. I could use it as together. What do you think?

http://randr.smugmug.com/photos/8885349-M.jpg

http://randr.smugmug.com/photos/8885350-M.jpg


http://randr.smugmug.com/photos/8885352-M.jpg

My favorite black and white shot

http://randr.smugmug.com/photos/8885354-M.jpg

I loved this one because I was able to get the image, reflection, and shadow. This could also be used in the competition as together.

http://randr.smugmug.com/photos/8885355-M.jpg

I always read walking away from a photo shoot don't forget to look around you might just find your best shot. I don't know if it is the best but it is interesting.

http://randr.smugmug.com/photos/8885357-M.jpg

[Arki]

Nice shots you have. I'm brand new here myself. I'm also using the 5700 and I like it a lot - it has some issues and can be a pain to use in real low light situations. Try to shoot in RAW as much as you can - I just started and wish i had doen more earlier. As good as your pictures are from the cockpit, I really hope the autopilot is even better! - just kidding (flight sim enthusiast here....)

Steve

[ginger_55]

I hate that arch. Don't know why, just saw it once while moving across country.

I almost like it, your photos of it are really good.

Photoshop Elements is what I started out with. That is not the good news. The best news is that you came along at just the right time, they just came out with a new version. Some of the best stuff on it from those overpriced programs (I have them now and I am not saying how I got them, but good lord, they are expensive.) I actually bought Elements on sale a couple years ago for $30.00. Then I must have spent about $100.00 right away on books. I have never seen it that cheap again, and you want the new version, trust me, you want the new version. And some books, hehe, but you can get them slowly. Everyone here seems to like the Kelby books. I don't know if he writes for Elements or not.

A hint on those books. They are high priced, too. But at Amazon, check out the used books. Make sure they are cheaper than Amazon's, which are cheaper than a bookstore. Overstock.com is a good place to find some of them. But go to Amazon first and read all the reviews. The reason I said that is that someone recommended a book for Elements to someone else, and when I went to Amazon, I read some not very good reviews. And someone was quite specific where there were errors, so anyone who had, or wanted to buy that book, would know exactly where the book was wrong. You could then print that out, put it with the book, if you were to buy it and correct the text.

I always go to Amazon and read the reviews. I have a lot of Elements books, but I did not belong to a neat place like this then, so I did not really use them as I could have, so I would not recommend any specific one. Maybe someone else can. But go to Amazon, check the reviews, and check the used book prices. They are not usually used. You don't want to pay $40.00 for a paperback, not when you can pay something like $25.00.

And with this neat place, dgrin, just wallow in, ask questions, and you will get the jargon pretty fast. I didn't know what USM was either until I joined here, maybe in May. I have been doing Digital Photgraphy for 5 years or more. I have learned so much here.:clap

I have photoshop CS, and I want the new version of Elements, kidding there, but oh my, they did put some good stuff on it. The healing brush comes to mind. I never use that, but it is a neat thing that I will use sometime. I didn't have access to it for a long time.

Oh, that stuff someone did, with the areal (sp?) shot of the arch. Something like
30 60 and something thing.

I didn't know you could sharpen different colors separately. Did I just not look hard enough?

Don't want to miss that. ONe more thing to learn.

ginger

[R&R]

I will try shooting in raw. I just hate how big the files are and they download as TIFS. I have had problems with low light as well. Did shooting raw help that?

Believe it or not I still like doing the computer flight simms. I haven't done much of it lately though because I have been so busy. Which ones do you like?

Rich

[R&R]

Thanks Ginger for all the good advice. I think I might preorder the elements for that special $50 price I saw on the photoshop forum. I am looking forward to being able to fix some of my photos.

Rich

[digismile]

This is my favorite shot. The B&W's do nothing for me, but that's probably just me. There is certainly a strong following of "convert everything to B&W" here on dgrin :D , so take my feedback with a grain of salt!

The area I live in is called Blue Sky Country because of all the sunshine we get. It's not often you get such a perfect colour sky. I guess that's why I like this photo ... Good job.

http://randr.smugmug.com/photos/8885349-M.jpg


The silhouette is pretty good too. I might tried lightening the shadows and colour just to see how it looks.

http://randr.smugmug.com/photos/8885352-M.jpg


Look forward to seeing more.

Regards,
Brad

[wxwax]

I agree, digi, the color arch with the water reflection is really nice, my favorite also.

[DJ-S1]

Oh, that stuff someone did, with the areal (sp?) shot of the arch. Something like 30 60 and something thing.

I didn't know you could sharpen different colors separately. Did I just not look hard enough?

Don't want to miss that. ONe more thing to learn.

ginger
Ginger, The 30,60,1 settings were for the USM variables (amount, radius, and threshold but I don't remember the right order...). I didn't sharpen individual colors, I just made level adjustments on the individual colors. I bet you do that sometimes already. Sorry if my original explanation was confusing.

R&R, I think you got some great shots there of the arch. Are you sure you're a beginner??:huh :D

[R&R]

I promise that I am. The flowers I took pictures of are the first pictures I have ever taken without people in them. I cheated with the Arch. When we are in St. Louis we stay in a hotel directly across from the arch. It is the Millenium Hotel and there are pictures all over the hotel. I saw similar pictures that I took and got my idea from them. I knew that there had to be water somewhere to get that reflection. I walked around for an hour and a half before I found where they got some of there pictures. The siluette shot I got lucky on because I was trying to learn more about how shutter speed and aperture relate.

Question:
If your camera is in shutter priority do you get more depth of field with a slower shutter speed or faster shutter speed. I always forget which aperture gives you better depth of field but I figure if I know how the shutter speed relates I won't forget. I think a lower number aperture is less depth of field and faster shutter speed because more light gets in. Higher number aperture is more depth of field but needs more light so longer shutter speed. I always mess this up because I know aperture is really a fraction and the lower number is actually a higher value. Is this correct or am I way off?

I love this sight. Everybody is so helpful. If Andy sees this my hat is off to you because I love your pictures and your contests make this so much more fun. I would never have been out taking pictures this week if it wasn't for this forum. Thank you everybody.:thumb

Rich

[R&R]

One more question

I have a picture I put in for my profile but I don't know hot to get it to display on my posts.

Rich

[ginger_55]

One more question

I have a picture I put in for my profile but I don't know hot to get it to display on my posts.

Rich
It is called an avatar, click on private messages, look to your left, find avatar and follow the rules there.

smile, ginger

[ginger_55]

I
Question:
If your camera is in shutter priority do you get more depth of field with a slower shutter speed or faster shutter speed. I always forget which aperture gives you better depth of field but I figure if I know how the shutter speed relates I won't forget. I think a lower number aperture is less depth of field and faster shutter speed because more light gets in. Higher number aperture is more depth of field but needs more light so longer shutter speed. I always mess this up because I know aperture is really a fraction and the lower number is actually a higher value. Is this correct or am I way off?

I love this sight. Everybody is so helpful. If Andy sees this my hat is off to you because I love your pictures and your contests make this so much more fun. I would never have been out taking pictures this week if it wasn't for this forum. Thank you everybody.:thumb

RichWell, for making things complicated.:D I had forgotten all that after years of learning it. Just reading your question brought a lot of it back.

All I ever learned, until it was instinct (and this was film) I learned that the higher the aperture the greater the depth of field. I learned this by memorizing that it was all screwed up and the opposite of the way I would have thought.

When I had that down, a bit of the whys and wherefores crept in, but not to the degree you want to know.

I also learned that the higher the number the more the action was stopped and the easier it was to hand hold the camera as related to shutter speed.

I did not have the priority thing which is now even messing with my head a bit.

But I, well my camera was broken, I didn't know it, AF didn't work, so I had to shoot in shutter priority, TF, I think.

However, it would depend on a lot of things, I am nothing if not practical and don't confuse me with more than I want to know, I am that type person.

I would go to shutter priority if a fast shutter speed were necessary. Or a slow one.

Now what that would do to the aperture, well, a faster shutter speed (higher number), it would make the aperture a lower number, and thereby reduce the depth of field.

On aperture priority, say on a tripod, or if depth of field is important, a lot of depth of field, the higher number, would give you a slower shutter speed.

See, if one goes up and takes priority, the other one is going to go down as it loses priority.

I usually set my camera before I leave the house. I even make notes to myself. I still mess up. Before I about a few weeks ago I used my Rebel, DSLR, on programmed modes, made it a point and shoot basically. Now I am learning this stuff again, too, I shot film for years, but even shot it in programmable mode towards the end. So about 20 years ago I knew this stuff, now I am trying to put it all together in digital with slightly different language.

Start out small, I would suggest. Just learn what works, then learn why it works. If you are one of those people who have to know it all........I cannot relate.

And all the info I gave you might be wrong, so I would ask someone else, too.
If it is all wrong, let me know, and I will delete this post and go hang my head.

ginger:dunno (A slow shutter speed would give you more depth of field? But how much more would depend. It has to be slow enough to shoot, smile. Then to get lots of depth of field, it would have to be even slower?)

I am going to go eat lunch and read books.

[GREAPER]

Question:
If your camera is in shutter priority do you get more depth of field with a slower shutter speed or faster shutter speed. I always forget which aperture gives you better depth of field but I figure if I know how the shutter speed relates I won't forget. I think a lower number aperture is less depth of field and faster shutter speed because more light gets in. Higher number aperture is more depth of field but needs more light so longer shutter speed. I always mess this up because I know aperture is really a fraction and the lower number is actually a higher value. Is this correct or am I way off?

I love this sight. Everybody is so helpful. If Andy sees this my hat is off to you because I love your pictures and your contests make this so much more fun. I would never have been out taking pictures this week if it wasn't for this forum. Thank you everybody.:thumb

Rich

You are correct Sir. If depth of field is your main concern you might consider shooting in aperature priority and selecting the aperature you want. If stopping (or not stopping it) action is what you are after, then you might consider shutter priority.

[R&R]

When you do just shutter priority to stop the action what rule of thumb do you use to figure how fast you can go without losing the image. When I was out in St. Louis I came up with a little trick that seemed to work for me. I was putting the camera in Priority mode and it picks the best shutter and aperture. You can vary either in this mode but it isn't as quick as using shutter priority or aperture priority. Anyway I looked to see what shutter speed it was going to use and used that as a base of a good shot. I figured it wouldn't hurt to go one stop lower or higher and you would still end up with the same shot. The only problem is you don't always have time to do this. The arch wasn't going anywhere so I had all the time in the world. Is there some secret out there I don't know. I have heard of a light meter on your camera but I don't think the coolpix 5700 has that.

Sorry one more question on this post. All of my shots needed the contrast bumped up about 15% the brightness down about 10% and the saturation up 20%. Is there a way to set my camera so my shots would be closer to this and not all need tweaking. The only one I found messing with made it bad was the silluette.

Thanks again. I hope I am not driving people crazy with all these questions.

Rich

[digismile]

Hi Rich,

I don't know of a rule for how fast you can go, but there is a rule of thumb for how slow a shutter speed you can go, which is, you can hand hold a shot down to the reciprocal of the length of the lens (this is a little off with digital, but it's still a pretty good rule). This means that a telephoto lens set to 200mm can be hand held as slow as 1/200 of a second. A 30mm lens can be hand held down to 1/30 of second. How fast you can go is purely a function of how much light there is:D . From your previous posts, you already understand the relationship between aperture, light, and shutter speed!

So when you are taking a picture of a static object like the arch (it was a great shot), adjusting up or down in priority mode simply allows you to control depth of field.

As far as your question about adjusting contrast, saturation, etc. in camera, I feel you should continue to do this post production. Yes, it seems like you "always" have to do this, but I think you'll find that you have better control doing it with your software (especially the contrast/brightness) and it's al lot easier to add than to take away :D .

Keep up the great work,
Regards,
Brad


When you do just shutter priority to stop the action what rule of thumb do you use to figure how fast you can go without losing the image. When I was out in St. Louis I came up with a little trick that seemed to work for me. I was putting the camera in Priority mode and it picks the best shutter and aperture. You can vary either in this mode but it isn't as quick as using shutter priority or aperture priority. Anyway I looked to see what shutter speed it was going to use and used that as a base of a good shot. I figured it wouldn't hurt to go one stop lower or higher and you would still end up with the same shot. The only problem is you don't always have time to do this. The arch wasn't going anywhere so I had all the time in the world. Is there some secret out there I don't know. I have heard of a light meter on your camera but I don't think the coolpix 5700 has that.

Sorry one more question on this post. All of my shots needed the contrast bumped up about 15% the brightness down about 10% and the saturation up 20%. Is there a way to set my camera so my shots would be closer to this and not all need tweaking. The only one I found messing with made it bad was the silluette.

Thanks again. I hope I am not driving people crazy with all these questions.

Rich

[R&R]

Hi Rich,

I don't know of a rule for how fast you can go, but there is a rule of thumb for how slow a shutter speed you can go, which is, you can hand hold a shot down to the reciprocal of the length of the lens (this is a little off with digital, but it's still a pretty good rule). This means that a telephoto lens set to 200mm can be hand held as slow as 1/200 of a second. A 30mm lens can be hand held down to 1/30 of second. How fast you can go is purely a function of how much light there is:D . From your previous posts, you already understand the relationship between aperture, light, and shutter speed!

So when you are taking a picture of a static object like the arch (it was a great shot), adjusting up or down in priority mode simply allows you to control depth of field.

As far as your question about adjusting contrast, saturation, etc. in camera, I feel you should continue to do this post production. Yes, it seems like you "always" have to do this, but I think you'll find that you have better control doing it with your software (especially the contrast/brightness) and it's al lot easier to add than to take away :D .

Keep up the great work,
Regards,
Brad
OK that in mind how do I know what my lens is? I thought when you zoom in and out the the lens changes value like for instance 20mm - 70mm. While you are at it can you explain to me what that 35mm means? What is 35mm's. Also when I pick up my camera and have no zoom on it everything is smaller than real life. What lens value is true to exactly what you are looking at? I am so grateful for everybody's help. :bow If you haven't noticed I am one of those types of people that likes to know exactly how things work . I have gone to some good websites and read about this stuff before but I didn't really understand everything.

Rich

[digismile]

Hi Rich,

35mm is the generic term used to refer to the format/film size of the standard film type cameras that we have all used over the years. It is basically the actual size of a typical slide or negative. Cameras were generally described/categorized by the size of film.

Now in our digital world, our terminology refers back to this 35mm "standard". For example your camera has a zoom lens equivalent to a 35-280mm zoom lens on a 35mm camera (it's not the same measurement, but the specifications are quoted for comparitive purposes). I don't exactly remember, but I believe the focal length of a lens is the distance (in millimetres) from the first lens to the film plane (which would be the point of focus). Like in telescopes, longer and bigger is better (when you want to bring things very close!).

So this is what 35-280mm tells us. First of all it's a zoom lens that can be set anywhere between these 2 focal lengths. Any lens that is 35mm and less would be probably be considered a wide angle. 50mm was always considered to be the "standard" 1:1 lens in the 35mm world (objects looked the same through the viewfinder as the naked eye) although the "true" length may be slightly longer/shorter than that on some cameras. Just a rule of thumb:D

Lens that are 125mm and larger are considered telephotos. So, the bigger the "length" of the lens the closer the object is going to look, the smaller the or shorter the length, the closer the image. Lenses can come in various fixed length sizes (eg. 24mm, 28mm, 50mm, 200mm, 400mm, etc.) or as zoom lens. Zoom lens obviously have the benefit of convenience of being many lens in one!

So, your particular camera has an all purpose wide angle/telephoto lens. A very good combination.

Getting back to your depth of field question earlier, try the following test just to see the difference:

Try the cat/bunny photo again (or another average size object such as a headshot of a person). Get fairly close so that what ever object you are taking a picture of fills most of the picture frame (you want to zoom out so the camera is getting as much of your view as possible).

Using the same aperture setting as the previous photo (say f2.8), move back a fair ways and use your zoom to zoom-in and "frame" the picture the same way (i.e. the object(s) should fill the viewfinder approx. the same size).

You should now have 2 virtually identical photos, but taken from 2 different distances, close and far away. Did they look different? They should!

Give it a try,
Regards,
Brad




OK that in mind how do I know what my lens is? I thought when you zoom in and out the the lens changes value like for instance 20mm - 70mm. While you are at it can you explain to me what that 35mm means? What is 35mm's. Also when I pick up my camera and have no zoom on it everything is smaller than real life. What lens value is true to exactly what you are looking at? I am so grateful for everybody's help. :bow If you haven't noticed I am one of those types of people that likes to know exactly how things work . I have gone to some good websites and read about this stuff before but I didn't really understand everything.

Rich