How to deal with bright light behind your subject?

[MileHighAko]

Rookie question here: what is the best way to deal with bright light behind your subject? Yesterday I was shooting my daughter's gymnastics (D5000 50mm f/1.8), and on one of the apparatus there was a window directly behind with bright light coming in.

What is the best way to deal with that situation so that the bright light behind my subject doesn't take over the photo?

[yendikeno]

but here are a couple of ways I can think of to deal with a situation like this. You could use spot metering to insure the subject is exposed correctly no matter what the back ground. In an extreme case where the difference between the background and subject is way too much, you could use some fill flash to help reduce the exposure extremes. Hope that helps.

[Art Scott]

but here are a couple of ways I can think of to deal with a situation like this. You could use spot metering to insure the subject is exposed correctly no matter what the back ground. In an extreme case where the difference between the background and subject is way too much, you could use some fill flash to help reduce the exposure extremes. Hope that helps.

:agree:agree :thumb

[MileHighAko]

Thanks - Spot Metering is something I didn't think to try. Great advise, next time I'll give it a shot - I think I was set to center metering.

[DulaMug]

Rookie question here: what is the best way to deal with bright light behind your subject? Yesterday I was shooting my daughter's gymnastics (D5000 50mm f/1.8), and on one of the apparatus there was a window directly behind with bright light coming in.

What is the best way to deal with that situation so that the bright light behind my subject doesn't take over the photo?I had the same problem for years. I also had a problem with subjects wearing white until I learned to shoot manual and now I stay away from using any auto settings. If you do this your photos will improve in all lighting situations. If you are already shooting manual, sorry I don't have anything other ideas.

[racer]

Thanks - Spot Metering is something I didn't think to try. Great advise, next time I'll give it a shot - I think I was set to center metering.

Just remember to lock exposure onto what your spot metering, or else the meter/exposure will change as you move the camera around

[Icebear]

In a situation as described, there is probably an awful lot of light coming in from that window and adding to the general light level of the room. Manual exposure settings are probably going to be the best bet (just set and forget for each apparatus) but as the time passes and the sun moves, the amount of light coming through that window will change. Every now and then, check your setting. Also check your settings if you change your viewpoint. Otherwise "set-and-forget."

[divamum]

The other thing, too, is to frame as tightly as possible. If you spot meter for face/skin, and then crop out as much of the window as possible, you should get a decent exposure on your main subject. If you expose for the subject and the window is left in, it WILL be bright and will draw the eye, even if you have perfect exposure on the subject. Of course, if you blow it out entirely, that might give you a cool white/high key-ish looking neutral background - it could be worth experimenting with that for a few shots to see if it's possible to work it to your advantage!

[r3t1awr3yd]

I like this way: http://strobist.blogspot.com/2007/09/lighting-102-31-balance-flashsun.html

[Nikolai]

One of the things about shooting indoors is that while they can be moderately/awfully dark the light level remains the same and doesn't change over time. So shoot manual and ignore the light (just watch the flare/PF/CA).

That is, unless you wanna use it to your advantage, as in here: :wink

http://nik.smugmug.com/Photography/Selected/Best-of-2007/IMG5780-horns/223086400_jRYoy-L.jpg

[MileHighAko]

Thanks for all the help guys. I'm going to practice a bit more so when I get in that situation again I'll be successful.