Photek softliter vs 45" umbrella

[divamum]

Is there a noticeable difference? I really love softbox light for portraits, but my space is small enough that it's not the most practical solution (actually, I really love octobank light, but that's REALLY not an option in my small space!! :rofl)

I use speedlights rather than studio strobes, and already have 24" reversible and 45" shoothrough umbrellas, but was considering adding a 46" Photek Softliter (http://www.adorama.com/PTSL54.html) in lieu of a softbox.

Comments or thoughts? I know people are generally happy with them, but will it be different enough from my 45" umbrella to make it worth the investment?

[Mitchell]

I like the softlighter. In a pinch with an off camera flash, the softlighter gives a nice softbox feel in a small space. I think the light is less harsh than an umbrella. I generally prefer a shoot through umbrella, but the spill can be an issue if you need to control the light. The softlighter has an edge over the shoot through for control.

The biggest problem I have with the softlighter is getting the flash in the softlighter and keeping the IR receiver still visible. It takes a little doing with my Nikon flashes. Not sure how your Canon gear will work.

[divamum]

Interesting, Mitchell, thanks. And you know the kind of light I like (eg, YOURS!!!) so that's encouraging.

How do you manage to get your IR panel visible? The Canon one is on the front of the flash - it will actually work indoors even if it's not in obviously direct line of sight (presumably the signal bounces off the walls), but is there a away of making sure that part of the flash pokes out appropriately so it can be seen through the panel? Just wondering how you (and others) make that work...

Tx!!

[Mitchell]

Actually, the IR panel on the Nikon flash can be covered by the softlighter. The IR receiver, a small window on the side of the body of the flash needs to be visible to receive the signal from the IR trigger. You could also use RF triggers which would bypass this problem.

[divamum]

Yeah, but I don't have radio triggers (yet :D) I'm guessing that the Canon IR panel will be ok if it's covered by something translucscent as long as it's sheer enough....

Any Canon users in here sucessfully shot with the Softliter when triggered by the ETTL system (eg ste2, 580ex or 7d)?

[mrcoons]

Yeah, but I don't have radio triggers (yet :D) I'm guessing that the Canon IR panel will be ok if it's covered by something translucscent as long as it's sheer enough....

Any Canon users in here sucessfully shot with the Softliter when triggered by the ETTL system (eg ste2, 580ex or 7d)?

You have to be inventive sometime to get the panel pointing the right way. I have clamped and bungee corded my flash to the Softliters shaft get it pointed the right way. It can be troublesome though.

[kdog]

Yeah, but I don't have radio triggers (yet :D) I'm guessing that the Canon IR panel will be ok if it's covered by something translucscent as long as it's sheer enough....

Any Canon users in here sucessfully shot with the Softliter when triggered by the ETTL system (eg ste2, 580ex or 7d)?
You don't typically stick the whole flash into the umbrella, so the preflash detector area on the flash ends up in the opaque sock that acts as kind of a gasket that the flash is inserted into which blocks the communication. If you aim the preflash detector panel (it's not actually IR, btw) just right, and fold the sock back a little then you can make it work. Remote triggers work great, but you lose your ETTL unless you spend a lot of money on one with ETTL. A great little tip I learned at Syl Arena's clinic was to get yourself a 24' ETTL cable. Sure it's kind of low-tech but it works perfectly. (Click on image for link.)

http://www.flashzebra.com/products/0125/0125.jpg (http://www.flashzebra.com/products/0125/index.shtml)

[divamum]

Oooo... thanks Kdog. (Btw, ssn't the STE2 infrared since it doesn't have a flash to pre-flash detect?! :dunno)

Now, explain the cable to me - would that be used instead of a trigger? I'm confused - since I have wireless capability (ste2 or 7d commander) would the cable be simply to bypass the problems with the blocked transmitter panel? Sorry if I'm being really dim here - it's been a long weekend!

(Similarly, apologies for posting this in cameras instead of accessories - I've only just realised I put it in the wrong place... duh.... Mea culpa, Ziggy!)

[ziggy53]

I (finally) moved this to Accessories.

I do agree that the Softlighter produces somewhat better light for portraits partly because the emitting surface is flat and that seems to wrap light better than a shoot-through umbrella, which presents a curved surface to the subject and therefore seems a little "hotter" in the center. I do recommend the version with the removable stem so that you can get the Softlighter closer to the subject safely.

A Softlighter also hugs the ceiling a little better for low ceiling use. This allows slightly better placement.

I use simple radio transmitter/receiver sets with either in full manual flash control. It's a lot faster and easier than it might first seem and you can easily practice the technique before a shoot and get your settings and distances planned in advance of the shoot.

[kdog]

Oooo... thanks Kdog. (Btw, ssn't the STE2 infrared since it doesn't have a flash to pre-flash detect?! :dunno)

Hmm, I really don't know! :huh Ziggy?

Now, explain the cable to me - would that be used instead of a trigger? I'm confused - since I have wireless capability (ste2 or 7d commander) would the cable be simply to bypass the problems with the blocked transmitter panel? Yes and yes. It's a wired ETTL remote, if you will. Plug one end in your hot-shoe on the camera, and connect a Canon flash to the other end. Voila.

Cheers,
-joel

[kdog]

BTW, I agree with Ziggy that it's better to work in a studio environment in manual. However, there is an advantage in using ETTL even in manual mode. You can use the in-camera flash controls to adjust the power output of the flash in the softlighter. It's more convenient and more professional not to have to interrupt the flow of the shoot to run over to the Softlighter and adjust the flash.

[Art Scott]

I have shot with my Nikon flashes in a brolly box (http://shop.ebay.com/items/brolly+box?_dmd=1&_sop=12&rvr_id=&crlp=1642204369_238201_238211&UA=%3F*F%3F&GUID=691c0a4a1260a0265371d891ffae0033&agid=702444889&MT_ID=70&keyword=brolly+box&ff4=238201_238211)...........better than an umbrella and gives me the octo look I like in catch lights.....
softboxes are for product photography in my opinion.....I just do not like square or rectangular catch lights....but that is just me..............
I like the way the rear "curtain" on the brolly closes around the speedlight or studio flash to cut out the backward spill............

[divamum]

Darnit - wish I'd seen those brolly boxes a little earlier as I might have considered them as a cost-effective way to give this a try...

As it is, I'd already ordered the Photek a couple of hours ago. That said, i do like the ability to remove the shaft and it seems like a versatilve piece of kit - if I like it and it does what I need, I'll keep it and if not... I'll check out the BBoxes and go from there!

Thanks all - I'll post back once I've given it a try :D

[divamum]

I'm thinking I really like the Softlighter... :D

Firstly, once again thanks to Adorama for getting stuff to me SO FAST. I guess I'm on a really good route, because free shipping is almost always overnight for me - I ordered Sunday night, and the package arrived this morning. :thumb

Model wasn't feeling 100% cooperative, but I did get to fool around with it for a litttle while. No problem at all getting the flash to fire - it's a little tricky to get the head into the hole (I kind of had to wiggle everything around until flash+opening lined up enough to squeeze it in - maybe next time I'll put the flash in first and then hook the diffuser onto the spokes), but it was easy enough to keep the sock from blocking the receiver. No problem there at all.

I definitely prefer the light fall-off this offers over an umbrella and I'm really liking the soft-box-like results. I possibly could even use the smaller-sized one in my dinky little space, but then that might negate the soft effect the larger source gives me.

http://www.smugmug.com/photos/879273458_Cuthv-L.jpg

The light created makes for verrrryyyy nice bw conversions, I think

http://www.smugmug.com/photos/879273475_sEChb-L.jpg

[ziggy53]

Congratulations on the Softlighter. :clap

[HelenOster]

I'm thinking I really like the Softlighter... :D

Firstly, once again thanks to Adorama for getting stuff to me SO FAST. I guess I'm on a really good route, because free shipping is almost always overnight for me - I ordered Sunday night, and the package arrived this morning. :thumb







Thanks so much for the posting :lust- I passed it on to Adam, our lovely warehouse manager!

[NeilL]

You don't typically stick the whole flash into the umbrella, so the preflash detector area on the flash ends up in the opaque sock that acts as kind of a gasket that the flash is inserted into which blocks the communication. If you aim the preflash detector panel (it's not actually IR, btw) just right, and fold the sock back a little then you can make it work. Remote triggers work great, but you lose your ETTL unless you spend a lot of money on one with ETTL. A great little tip I learned at Syl Arena's clinic was to get yourself a 24' ETTL cable. Sure it's kind of low-tech but it works perfectly. (Click on image for link.)

http://www.flashzebra.com/products/0125/0125.jpg (http://www.flashzebra.com/products/0125/index.shtml)

Yes, kdog, this is right on. I have one of these I got made by Paramount Cords in NY, on the recommendation of Pathfinder. Attach it to the master flash and you have control over everything else, no matter how things are situated.

Neil