mon Lake

[vermenton]

Morning in Mon Lake

[Andy]

vermenton,

is this a scan from a print? it's very soft.

[XO-Studios]

vermenton,

is this a scan from a print? it's very soft.:agree

In addition to that, seems like everything in the picture wants to be towards the center, the larger rock, the perceived horizon, the top edge of the reflection, a small offset of any of these might help. Then again, I am not much of a landscape photographer.

XO,

[vermenton]

:agree

In addition to that, seems like everything in the picture wants to be towards the center, the larger rock, the perceived horizon, the top edge of the reflection, a small offset of any of these might help. Then again, I am not much of a landscape photographer.

XO,
it's digital picture

[Andy]

it's digital picture

ok - now then - please tell us, camera make, model, and the exif - shot data (aperture, shutter speed, iso, metering mode, focus mode, any program mode used?

thanks

ps: here are some excellent mono lake shots - taken by dgrinner evil eggplant (http://www.photoallure.com/gallery/80009) just for a reference pont...

[vermenton]

ok - now then - please tell us, camera make, model, and the exif - shot data (aperture, shutter speed, iso, metering mode, focus mode, any program mode used?

thanks

ps: here are some excellent mono lake shots - taken by dgrinner evil eggplant (http://www.photoallure.com/gallery/80009) just for a reference pont...
File name:CRW_0714_RJ.JPG
File size:513389 bytesFile date:2005:07:22 18:40:03
Camera make:CanonCamera model:Canon EOS 10D
Date/Time:2005:07:17 05:17:02Resolution:3072 x 2048
Focal length:46.0mm (35mm equivalent: 73mm)CCD width:22.67mm
Exposure time:0.017 s (1/60)
Aperture:f/9.5ISO equiv.:100Jpeg process:Baseline

[Andy]

ok my comments: the shot is terribly soft, which is a major distraction. landscapes should be sharp and crisp, with lots of detail. i think the tufa is overexposed, shooting in raw and developing multiple exposures could help in this situation.

hth,

[vermenton]

ok my comments: the shot is terribly soft, which is a major distraction. landscapes should be sharp and crisp, with lots of detail. i think the tufa is overexposed, shooting in raw and developing multiple exposures could help in this situation.

hth,
thank you

[rutt]

ok my comments: the shot is terribly soft, which is a major distraction. landscapes should be sharp and crisp, with lots of detail. i think the tufa is overexposed, shooting in raw and developing multiple exposures could help in this situation.

hth,

It's hard to know for sure, with only the low res jpg to work on, but I'll bet this image can be saved at least in terms of exposure and sharpness. I was able to take the low res post and get this, just with my usual workflow:

http://rutt.smugmug.com/photos/32295820-O.jpg

I used shadow/highlight with 0/0/0/50/20/10 to recover some detail in the overexposed tufa. (Here is a post on this subject: http://www.dgrin.com/showthread.php?t=9805) Then I converted to LAB mode and applied these curves:

http://rutt.smugmug.com/photos/32295597-S.jpghttp://rutt.smugmug.com/photos/32295561-S.jpghttp://rutt.smugmug.com/photos/32295590-S.jpg

Lastly, I sharpened using separate lighten and darken layers as explained here: http://www.dgrin.com/showthread.php?t=10409

Sometimes overexposed pictures look soft just because they don't have strong black which we see as sharpness. ALso this shot had a definite magenta cast. I could measure this on the snow on the mountains. So my A curve isn't symetric which makes gets the magenta out of the snow. It was also blue, but snow in sunlight needs to be a little blue, so the B curve is only slightly asymetric.

Anway, what I've done here is only a fraction of what you can do with a full sized original. With a raw version you can do even more, but I'll bet you actually don't need it in this case.

[vermenton]

It's hard to know for sure, with only the low res jpg to work on, but I'll bet this image can be saved at least in terms of exposure and sharpness. I was able to take the low res post and get this, just with my usual workflow:

http://rutt.smugmug.com/photos/32295820-O.jpg

I used shadow/highlight with 0/0/0/50/20/10 to recover some detail in the overexposed tufa. (Here is a post on this subject: http://www.dgrin.com/showthread.php?t=9805) Then I converted to LAB mode and applied these curves:

http://rutt.smugmug.com/photos/32295597-S.jpghttp://rutt.smugmug.com/photos/32295561-S.jpghttp://rutt.smugmug.com/photos/32295590-S.jpg

Lastly, I sharpened using separate lighten and darken layers as explained here: http://www.dgrin.com/showthread.php?t=10409

Sometimes overexposed pictures look soft just because they don't have strong black which we see as sharpness. ALso this shot had a definite magenta cast. I could measure this on the snow on the mountains. So my A curve isn't symetric which makes gets the magenta out of the snow. It was also blue, but snow in sunlight needs to be a little blue, so the B curve is only slightly asymetric.

Anway, what I've done here is only a fraction of what you can do with a full sized original. With a raw version you can do even more, but I'll bet you actually don't need it in this case.

I thank you very much to take the time to share you knowledge with. I t does look better i will try it on the raw format and later on repost the picture.

Vermenton