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View Full Version : D40X and Nikkor AF-S Question


I9kon
May-24-2009, 10:52 AM
I own a Nikon D40X and Nikkor lens AF-S (18-135mm). I use them to take pictures of the family's routine and trips we take. It is the best way to keep the grandparents, who live far away, part of their day-to-day development. The problem (or perception of a problem) I am having relates to the focus of this set. I used the camera under various conditions (daylight, flash light, tripod, etc.), and almost all the time under "P" or AUTO programs. The impression I have is that the focus is a tad off when I look at the results on a larger screen. I post-edit the images with the "Picture Perfect" and it always improve the sharpness to a point I would have been satisfied, had it first being like that.
Is this perception just the result of my unreasonable and demanding "quality control" for a cristal-clear photos or something justifiable. Is there a way to have the camera lens checked for focus accuracy without being ripped-off?

thedude
May-24-2009, 12:58 PM
I also had the same initial impression when I started using the D60 (which shares many of the same settings/features). But I found a way to quickly improve the accuracy of focus by paying attention to two settings: "Focus mode" and "AF-area mode".

Which settings are you using?

The ones that give me the most consistent results is when I use:

> Focus mode: AF-S Single Servo AF
> AF-area: single point

What this essentially means is that the camera only focuses where you tell it to. I.e.: you select which focus point it should use, you point that at the subject you want in focus, you then press the shutter half-way, you recompose the shot (without letting go of the shutter) and then fully press the shutter to take the picture.

The difference (in a nutshell) is that the other options for these two menu settings make the camera "think for you". I.e.: it will use it's artificial intelligence to figure out where the focus should be (which may not always be where you want it).

In terms of what the other settings mean:

> AF-area: Closest subject = the camera will try to focus on what's closest to you (within the limits of it's focus-area range)
> AF-area: Dynamic area = you choose the focus area but the camera is prepared to follow a moving subject

> Focus mode: continuous servo = the camera does not lock focus when you press the shutter half-way. Instead it will start but will shift to follow a moving target.
> Focus mode: Auto-servo = the camera will decide whether the subject is static or moving and will either use singe-servo or continuous servo respectively.

Note: this will work in the "P" mode, but in the full (green) Auto mode you can only change the AF-area (the focus mode is limited to either auto-servo or manual focusing)

I hope this helps.

(P.S.: I'm not ruling out the possibility that your lens may have a front-, or back-focus issue which would need Nikon's service to realign the lens with your camera...but I - personally - have not come across this issue)

ziggy53
May-24-2009, 08:29 PM
I own a Nikon D40X and Nikkor lens AF-S (18-135mm). I use them to take pictures of the family's routine and trips we take. It is the best way to keep the grandparents, who live far away, part of their day-to-day development. The problem (or perception of a problem) I am having relates to the focus of this set. I used the camera under various conditions (daylight, flash light, tripod, etc.), and almost all the time under "P" or AUTO programs. The impression I have is that the focus is a tad off when I look at the results on a larger screen. I post-edit the images with the "Picture Perfect" and it always improve the sharpness to a point I would have been satisfied, had it first being like that.
Is this perception just the result of my unreasonable and demanding "quality control" for a cristal-clear photos or something justifiable. Is there a way to have the camera lens checked for focus accuracy without being ripped-off?

I9kon, welcome to the Digital Grin. :clap

It would really help if you could post some links to original, unprocessed, images with EXIF demonstrating what you describe. There could be several issues at work here.