Issues with ISO noise

[MissB]

Hey new here!! I have a rebel xsi and Im shooting all natural light pictures right now. Most of my photos are of children or moving subjects. It seems the only way I can get a good exposure is to crank the ISO up to 800 or greater...unfortunatly they end up grainy...esp if I have to do some further PP. Any suggestions for better exposure in natural light photography... I am even willing to cheat and use some alternative lighting if it helps cut down on the grain.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3564/3315950957_5b82dc6b2c.jpg?v=0

[p27rpy]

do you have an external flash? if you don't, i would definitely say that you should look at getting a speedlight. it makes all the difference with lighting and exposure when compared to the camera alone.

also, usually indoors you will need some kind of extra lighting so help out with exposure times and ISO. whether it be a lamp, flash, sitting next to a window, etc.

[Candid Arts]

I would also look at NR software. I don't know good ones versus bad ones as I've never used it, but hear it works well.

[MissB]

wow thank you so much! Can you give me a quick know how on speed lights?

[Dooginfif20]

I highly recommend Noise Ninja! I would say its the best software out there for noise reduction

[Tee Why]

How is the exposure, if you find that post processing adds a lot of noise, your exposure maybe off by a bit and correcting it will introduce noise, higher the ISO, more noise.

Second, are you using noise reduction? If not consider using the noise reduction that comes with Canon's DPP program.

If you are using ambient light and need ISO 800, you can also consider buying faster lenses or using more light/reflectors.

Good luck.

[MissB]

Okay so total newbee... I am somewhat grasping the manual working of the camera... but Im not sure what a "faster lens" means... to me I would think that faster lens would mean less light and low exposure...Im confused :) What is the DPP software?? Did it come with my camera or do I have to get it seperatly.

Also, someone mentioned to me about the nifty 50 .. anyone familiar with this?? Thank you for the imput!!!!!

Becky:dunno

[Candid Arts]

Okay so total newbee... I am somewhat grasping the manual working of the camera... but Im not sure what a "faster lens" means... to me I would think that faster lens would mean less light and low exposure...Im confused :) What is the DPP software?? Did it come with my camera or do I have to get it seperatly.

Also, someone mentioned to me about the nifty 50 .. anyone familiar with this?? Thank you for the input!!!!!

Becky:dunno

I'll start off with "fast lenses". This is a little something I wrote up awhile ago, in which I tried to describe how it all works in the simplest terms I could. The link to that thread is here (http://www.dgrin.com/showthread.php?t=118509). You'll want to scroll down a little bit, I go through a bit of terms in that thread, the 2nd post, and one later down on the first page have very helpful info. So if some of the terminology gets your brain in a twist, just keep reading, it should start to make sense the further you go.

Basically a "faster lens" is one with a wider aperture. Which allows more light, and allows for a faster shutter speed. Hence the term fast lens.

Secondly, Canon's DPP stands for Digital Photo Professional. It should have came with the camera you purchased. It has slight NR capabilities.

Thirdly, the "nifty fifty" is Canon's 50mm f/1.8 lens. It's fast in the sense that it has a super wide aperture, but has no USM, so it focuses SUPER slow. I would suggest, if money permits, the 50mm f/1.4 USM lens. It is +1/2 stop faster, focus is WAY faster, plus IQ is a lot better as well. But it's like $350 ish vs $100 for the "nifty fifty".

Hope it all helps, and welcome to the fun, exciting and expensive world of digital photography!

[Qarik]

before you go out and buy a speedlight.

1) high iso will casue graininess..can you up the aperture or increase the shutter speed and reduce the iso? what is teh exif on this shot?

2) can you turn on more lights?

That said you will need a speed light any way if you want to progress beyond the boundaries of natural light hehe.

[MissB]

That does make a ton of sense...I have a new lens on the way...I wish I had waited and invested in a faster one. The Image was done inside... more than likely 800iso and 1/200S ... thank you so much for your imput... everyone here is so generous with there knowledge! :barb

[Candid Arts]

That does make a ton of sense...I have a new lens on the way...I wish I had waited and invested in a faster one. The Image was done inside... more than likely 800iso and 1/200S ... thank you so much for your imput... everyone here is so generous with there knowledge! :barb

What lens was this shot with, and what lens did you order?

[MissB]

Okay...so followed your advice and installed the noise DSS software that came with my xsi... It gives me the option of choosing 1-10 (adjustment) in multiple noise reduction options...which I know nothing about... I set my default at 10 for every noise reduction option...(lol..no noise for me) Does anyone recommend a specific setting for this??? thank you :)

Becky

[MissB]

What lens was this shot with, and what lens did you order?

the image was shot with 18-55mm efs (stock with kit) I ordered the canon 50-250mm efs zoom lens. I did try the noise reduction software it does seem to make a difference.:clap

[Elliot]

Even with the wiggling baby factor you could probably afford to go a bit slower with the shutter than 1/200. The kit lense has a max focal length of 55mm. The old rule of thumb is that you can hand-hold a shot using the same speed as the focal length. e.g, at 50mm, you can go as slow as 1/50, 100mm you can go as slow as 1/100 etc.

However the old rule is a bit more confusing with your digital camera as it has a smaller sensor size than the 35mm that the old rule applies to. To get the "equivilent focal length (EFL)" for your XSi, multiple the focal length by 1.6.

Soooooo...

at 55mm on your Canon, you can go as low as 1/80 ish. (55 x 1.6 = 88 or 1/80s)
35mm = 1/50
18mm = 1/30 (wow...that's getting slow...the wiggling baby factor would definately come in to play at this point)

Anyway...hopefully you get the idea.

[MissB]

wow that is helpful....I've been reading a lot of child photography books recently and is seemed that the rule of thumb for portraits was not to go much lower that 1/200 but certianly I will heed your advice and play around with the settings a bit. Thank you :):bow