Need help with night shots and ISO

[redleash]

I went out to shoot some night shots on the Riverwalk on Sunday. I had posted a previous shot (#1) that folks said was good, but somebody suggested trying it with longer shutter speeds (#2 and #3). I did, albeit without tripod. I rested the camera on the bridge rail but still got some movement, so I will try next time with tripod.

Decided to also try with ISO set to auto and understandably got lots of noise from the ISO 1600 shots. Most of the ISO 400 shots are OK. Also got lots of blur at longer shutter speed--was it b/c of no tripod or too long open shutter? I also read somewhere that one should set WB at Tungsten for lights at night--is that necessary if shooting in RAW?

Any and all tips on shooting Christmas lights at night are welcomed!

Thanks,
Lauren

#1 Previously posted shot - f/3.5 ISO 400 Exp 10/13 (???) Shot at 8pm (Auto mode)
http://redleash.smugmug.com/photos/434770803_2xkmr-M.jpg

#2 New shot - f/4 ISO 400 Exp 1sec Shot at 6 pm (Shutter priority mode)
http://redleash.smugmug.com/photos/437852327_m4xcS-M.jpg

#3 Same shot - f/9 ISO 400 Exp 3sec Shot at 6 pm (Auto mode)
http://redleash.smugmug.com/photos/437862084_wZrgE-M.jpg


#4 Unrelated but what could improve this one? - f/4.5 ISO 1600 Exp 1/25 (Auto mode)
http://redleash.smugmug.com/photos/437784808_d3Vot-M.jpg

[aj986s]

When bracing the camera against something, instead of using a tripod, consider how stable the "something" really is. You can actually do pretty well on a firm, flat surface, like a wall or window ledge. But something like a bridge can actually have some vibrations, due to foot or car traffic. Even though the camera never moved, the bridge may have caused the blur. Also, any surface the camera can't sit flat on will be subject to some movement.

[pathfinder]

I agree with the reservation about shooting from bridges with a tripod. Bridges tend to move with traffic.

I shot this on a tripod, from an asphalt road bed surface that I was not aware was actually a bridge in the dark. But you can see the movement of the boats as cars rolled over the bridge while my shutter was open. Many shots were sharp, but when cars were passing behind me, not so sharp.

http://pathfinder.smugmug.com/photos/326110299_Qb7rr-X2.jpg

I agree with Tungsten white balance for shooting outside in city lights at night.

I would shoot with as low an ISO as possible.

I would strongly suggest shooting in Manual Mode to best control your exposure. Or possibly Av mode, with a significant negative Exposure Compensation.

http://pathfinder.smugmug.com/photos/436617750_Emr7n-XL.jpg

[Scotto]

Redleash, I love the first shot in your post.. very very nice.

I have done a fair few shots at night under some quiet obscure lighting. I always use a WhiBal (http://www.rawworkflow.com/whibal/) card, taking a shot of the WhiBal next to the subject then in processing I have a accurate colour reference point.

These shots where taken using a long exposure under such light..

2secs / F6.3 / ISO 100
http://scottsharman.smugmug.com/photos/431830013_cG79n-L.jpg

2secs / F4.5 / ISO 100
http://scottsharman.smugmug.com/photos/431971323_joQGq-L.jpg

[redleash]

Thanks, all. I usually shot Ap priority, so was surprised to look back and see that none of my "good" shots were Ap. I will definitely go try again.

Scotto, I like your comparison shots--they give me a good idea of what can be done at night.

I should have made clear: the bridge I shot from is a concrete foot bridge over the river, no traffic other than humans. At the time I shot, there was one other woman shooting from the same bridge. I doubt either of us caused any vibration--but it is definitely a factor to consider!

[sherijohnson]

here is another thought to consider.... are you using the button on the camera to take the picture? using self timer? or cable shutter release?

the first option can indeed cause movement to the camera

best results with tripod and then using either a self timer or a shutter release cable to eliminate camera shake or movement